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    Anyone had any experience with Summit brand rotors? They have some cross drilled ones for 33 each right now. What is a good rotor that wont break my wallet, thanks in advance


    SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

  • #2
    bear makes a good drilled and slotted roter for pretty cheep
    2000 WS.6 RAM AIR... black on black
    current mods.....
    3" custom exhaust from zPERFORMANCE(highflow cats and super40), SLP lid w/ k&n filter and smooth bellows, slp 85mm MAF, and diablo predator II tune, beefed up sway bars and adjustable panhard bar....its my DD

    Current restored and sold projects....
    1979 10th anniversary ta
    yamaha r1 (nitrous install)

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    • #3
      This may be irrelevant, but are you sure want them drilled? A couple of things to note are:
      - Watch for brands that drill them after full casting and cooling. This tends to weaken the material and cause premature cracking (or so I've heard)
      - Cross-drilled applications are more for really hard road racing...slotted should be enough for cooling when hard driving...the drilled out material just means you'll be losing more surface area to contact with the pad.

      I would personally stay with a major brake part brand, but maybe a search on cz28 would help.
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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      • #4
        And just to add what Craig mentioned......slotted-only rotors are generally better on the street as the slots will "scrub" the pad from top to bottom as the slots in the rotor move past the pad. This keeps the pad and rotor surface cleaner and ensures the best possible contact surface between the pad and rotor.

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        • #5
          http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...f29e326204645d

          i don't think this will break your wallet
          2001 Trans Am WS6 M6
          SLP: short throw|short shifter|CAI|MAF|TB ByPass
          Spohn: SFC|Tunnel Brace|LCA|Swaybars|LCA bracket|Shock Tower Brace|Nitto NT555 Extreme Performance|Pacesetter LT|TrueDual|1-chamber Flowmaster|DLA224/224Cam|Comp Cams 918 Springs|ported oil pump|timing chain|PRC LS6 heads|LS7 lifters|Fast Intake 90mm|NW TB 90mm|Thermostat 160|NGK TR 55|RacetronicFP|429/404 hp/tq|tuned by George Haddad motorsports
          http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/690385

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          • #6
            And to add yet another bit of info regarding cross-drilled rotors, look at these Baer rotors after 4K miles (life extended to 19K miles with ongenic treatment).... really ugly, and these are expensive rotors.

            http://www.ws6.com/o.htm
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              Check out www.rotorpros.com I have had them on my car for all most 2yrs an they are super I will never use a stock rotor. An cheap
              Blazer

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              • #8
                WOW, I didnt know that cross drilling could lead to that! Those rotoworks on the ws6 store are a great price and I did some research and people have nothing but good things to say about them, I may just go with those


                SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

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                • #9
                  speaking of rotors, is it necessary to always replace the pads if you are replacing the rotors? I thought I could just kind of clean the pad surface or old brake dust and it should be ok. I've had people tell me that if you need new rotors, you should put on new pads to get the same level friction surface. But my pads aren't worn out!
                  Bruce
                  01 Camaro

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                  • #10
                    and i ve had to pay $300 for 2 rear rotors , ac delco, over here!!!!
                    93 t/a A4 3.23s
                    95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
                    99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
                    99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
                    97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
                    93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
                    00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

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                    • #11
                      As with any part, much depend on how you use them. If you abuse your brakes or subject them to road racing or any other high speed and high braking use, you're going to end up with damaged parts. I've seen cross drilled rotors last a very long time, yet a few outings on a road course and I've seen cracks. For that matter, I seen stock rotors with small stress cracks..... so simply be careful with your selection of parts and keep in mind your intended useage.

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