I'm having trouble getting my car to start. I think I have narrowed it down to somewhere in the ignition. I'm getting no spark at the spart plugs, and have already replaced the coil. I think i've narrowed it down to the opti now. but i'm not sure. i'm no expert. According to the procedures to test the opti i should be getting around 10v+ dc on a couple of the connectors going into the distributor. Instead i'm only getting around 5v on one, and nothing on the other. I'm at a dead end now and need some suggestions. A little while ago i was tinkering with some wires and when i nudged the wires plugging into the coil, the car started, and then shut off when i pushed them again. ??dont know if this has anything to do with it?? or if the wires could be bad leading to the coil. Please help, i'm running out of snow-free days.
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I would suggest checking all harness connections around the coil and the driver module. I've seen the intermittant starting problem before that was traced to poor connections.
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Have you scanned it for codes? The optical portion of the Opti, and the wiring to the IC Module will set codes if faulty.
Might want to add some basic info like the year of the car.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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I'm asssuming you have an LT1 since you mentioned the Opti. If you nudged the wires on the pigtail that plugs into the ICM (ignition control module), and that temporarily allowed the motor to start, then there is definitely a problem at that spot and would be a good place to start.Comment
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