I'm ready for more abuse.....

[formula_gramps]

Gentlemen....

Well, a couple of weeks ago I changed the plugs and O2 sensors in my '94 Formula, and as stated in a previous post, it was quite an experience in bad engineering. At that time, I also changed the plug wires on the driver side of the engine, (which were inaccessible enough...) but when I saw the routing of the wires on the passenger side, I decided to wait until I replenished my supply of patience.... (and perhaps German beer).

Any recommendations on changing those out? Seems like you can gain some better access from the top by removing the alternator and the serpentine belt. Access on the plug ends isn't so bad from underneath. Is there anything else that is usually removed to make it easier to route these 4 wires through the maze? I'm not looking forward to this.

Also, not sure if I read it here, but awhile back I think someone mentioned an alternative to those tin condoms they put on the plug boots. I can understand the need to shield the boots from the heat, but metal covers on a high voltage cables don't make a lick of sense to me. Even though they've never caused me any problems yet. Is there some other alternative any of you have used? If so, please mention brand name, where to buy etc.

Thanks guys, for making this a great source of info!!!

[Z Ya Later]

Yes, pulling the alternator helps a lot on the passenger side. I've talked to some guys who even moved the power steering pump out of the way, but I've never had to do that myself. It can be done with just the alternator off, but it takes some patience. The best thing you can do is have a friend help you with the wires. A good buddy of mine (who also frequents these boards) always gives me a hand with this (or vice-versa if its his TA). Having one person handle the connection to the Opti while the other routes the wires shaves a lot of time off the install.

As for the "tin condoms" (nice analogy lol), just leave them off. They're meant to shield the boots from heat, but can actually end up causing arcing. If you're really worried about the heat (and with stock manifolds, I wouldn't be), I'd suggest some heat shielding from MSD, Taylor, etc.

Hope this helps. Remember to keep an antiseptic and plenty of bandages on hand lol

[Joe 1320]

Use a 3/8" ratchet with a 5/8" sparkplug socket. Go to Sears and get a 3/4" inch
long 3/8" extension. I think it's like $3.99 for the extension. A 3" extension
will help too in some places. Get some dielectric grease also for when you put
the sparkplug wires back on. And last but not least, get some anti-seize for
the sparkplug threads when you put the new ones back in.

The plugs are numbered: I'm sure you may already known this.
1-3-5-7 from the drivers side front to back.
2-4-6-8 from the passenger side front to back.

Unhook the battery. I know. I hit the positive lead on the alternator with the
ratchet. Wasn't to pretty. But nothing got damaged. Cool spark show though.

Number 1. Easy. Came right out.

Number 3. Easy. Came right out.

Number 5. Medium. Remove plastic cover over the steering linkage for more room.
It just slides on. Came right out.

Number 7. Skip for now.

Number 2. Medium. Put the socket and extension on first. Then the ratchet. A
little tricky but it can be done. This way you don't have to remove the
alternator. Although moving the alternator really is no big deal.

Number 4. Easy. Came right out.

Number 6. Easy. Came right out.

Jack the car up.

Number 7. Easy. Can get to it from underneath.

Number 8. Hardest. Not really, just move the starter out of the way. Unbolt the
2 bolts and move it towards the front of the car resting on the engine cross
piece. Don't even have to unhook it. (another reason for unhooking the
battery). Able to reach it then, no problem. I tried from the top, but had to
reach pretty far back. Made it hard to do.

Hope this helps.

[Injuneer]

Gentlemen....

There are women members......

[Joe 1320]

If you're really worried about the heat (and with stock manifolds, I wouldn't be)

Stevo.... I'm sure about that. Plug wire boots have been close to exhaust manifolds for ages, the same breakdown keeps happening. Eventually the boots get brittle from being baked every time you drive the car. The stock plug shields are what give the initial wire set enough life to cover the factory warranty. I subscribe to the theory that heat shielding is mandatory, I suggest Taylor Firesleeves.

[Mark B]

I thought the best way was to remove the Y-pipe & starter? Thats the way I did it & I thought it went pretty smoothly.

[Z Ya Later]

Stevo.... I'm sure about that. Plug wire boots have been close to exhaust manifolds for ages, the same breakdown keeps happening. Eventually the boots get brittle from being baked every time you drive the car. The stock plug shields are what give the initial wire set enough life to cover the factory warranty. I subscribe to the theory that heat shielding is mandatory, I suggest Taylor Firesleeves.

I understand that, but I also remember reading multiple posts (even on here) of boots being able to take more heat than the wires themselves. I'm not saying to not use heat sheilding, I'm saying that on the factory manifolds its not as big of a deal as it would be with headers, as I'm sure you are quite well aware of

[formula_gramps]

attn: Injuneer

Roger that, Injuneer.....
Thank you for pointing that out.

I assure you I had no intention of slighting or showing disrespect to anyone. Over the weeks I have perused this forum and obtained a great deal of useful information from posts like yours, but had never come across any posts that indicated the forum had much in the way of female members. Unfortunately, the greeting line merely represents an old habit of courtesy that surely has outlived its usefulness especially in this era of political correctness.

To any of the ladies who may have read my initial post in this thread I apologize, if I appeared to be exclusionary.

As someone who joined the work force during a time when it was unusual for women to be in the work place, I have theless worked with women all of my working life, as the industry I started in, was one of the few exceptions that employed an equal number of both men and women. I therefore learned at an early age that women are equal to men in all endeavors, and as a result made numerous efforts to propel women colleagues forward into positions of power in business, during a time where such actions were not always appreciated by the "old boy network". It's an important lesson that I convey to my daughter periodically, in that I advise her never to accept any restrictions placed upon because of her gender.

In other words.......I know better! Sorry.

[formula_gramps]

Thanks to all

Thanks to Joe and Steve for the recommendations and product names. I had no idea if there even was such a thing. I looked the names up on the internet. The sleeves look like they're made of nomex or something like that. (?)

I just don't like the idea of those metal things being so close to the block and all.

As for Mark B.......man, you are kidding me, right? Removing the y-pipe and starter to change the passenger side plug wires !!!! Say it isn't so.....LOL!!!

[fastTa]

For sure don't leave the metal heat shields in place, and for sure use some fire sleeves around the end of the plug wires/boots even on stock exhaust manifolds.

I remember the first time I changed the plugs on my 97 WS6, I couldn't believe the horrible way that GM shoved that motor in between the shock towers. Those engineers should have been fired for that BS. Absolutely no excuse for that.

Taylor, DEI, and Competition Engineering all make good quality fire sleeves.

[Joe 1320]

Removing the y-pipe and starter to change the passenger side plug wires !!!! Say it isn't so.....LOL!!!

Honestly, I prefer it that way. When you have air tools, the exhaust comes apart in minutes and it's a much easier access. Now maybe if ya have skinny arms like Wolfie, reaching up there is easy.

[fastTa]

Although you don't have to, it does make life easier to drop the starter and y-pipe.