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stoopid coolant temp sensor

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  • #1

    stoopid coolant temp sensor

    OK, I bought an autoxray scanner so I could figure out my SES light on my own from now on. THe thing is great, well atleast for the 38 different things it monitors. The code was 15, or coolant temp too low (coolant temp showed -40 constantly on scanner). I installed a brand new sensor, code 14 was now stored....D'OH The coolant temp is now reading a constant 304.2F.......obviously thats wrong and throwing the code but what could it be? I replaced the sensor.....hooked it up right, so what else could be making it malfunction? ugh Thanks in advance for any help. I need to pass NJ inspection so please someone help, I have a MARCH inspection sticker
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  • #2
    Which coolant sensor did you replace? The one for the gage or the one for the PCM. (got to ask just to make sure)

    Here is some info. http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      THe one for the PCM that sets of the SES light (waterpump one)

      EDIT - thnx for the link

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      • #4
        Another dumb question, did you use pipe sealer on the threads of the new sensor?
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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        • #5
          No kind of sealant or nething, although the threads were a bit greasy out of the box.

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          • #6
            It may have had some of that liquid sealer. Just wanted to make sure it was grounding good. Let us know what you figure out.
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

            Comment

            • #7
              Check your wiring to the sensor from the PCM. Use a an ohm meter and make sure you have continuity.
              96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
              11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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              • #8
                Checking that reading tomorrow, do I REALLY need a 10 megaohm voltmeter? I think the one my co-worker has is 5 megaohm.........First I will test the sensor then the PCM connect. If the PCM connect is bad how would I go about fixing that? Just check the length of wire to the PCM.....but then what? It worked fine before I overheated that sux Got my nice sounding exhaust....finally can rev to 5500 RPMs like when I bought the car 60k miles ago......and now this stooooopid sensor is killing me!!!!


                Oh, I had the sensor done by a friend who works at Midas, he said he checked the sensor to see if it worked but not the PCM......we will see

                If I need to replace the sensor, does it act like and plug forcing me to drain the coolant before removing?

                Thanks again for all of the help!!

                *** edited for spelling

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