LS1 Steering Shaft Swap

[Z Ya Later]

My g/f bought me an LS1 steering shaft to replace the LT1 shaft a couple weeks ago when I was looking for more clearance between headers and steering shaft. Well, I'm noticing that the steering is feeling somewhat loose which I believe is the rag joint showing its age (from what I've read and heard). So, since I have an LS1 shaft, which has no rag joint, I'd like to swap it in.

My question is how hard would this be? I read on another forum that an alignment would badly be needed, but am not sure why. Can anyone shed some light on this? Would it just be a front-end alignment (wheels) or something else? Thanks in advance everyone.

[Joe 1320]

My g/f bought me an LS1 steering shaft to replace the LT1 shaft a couple weeks ago when I was looking for more clearance between headers and steering shaft. Well, I'm noticing that the steering is feeling somewhat loose which I believe is the rag joint showing its age (from what I've read and heard). So, since I have an LS1 shaft, which has no rag joint, I'd like to swap it in.

My question is how hard would this be? I read on another forum that an alignment would badly be needed, but am not sure why. Can anyone shed some light on this? Would it just be a front-end alignment (wheels) or something else? Thanks in advance everyone.

the orientation of the steering shaft is different. When the shaft is installed, the steering wheel will be rotated 45º so a major adjustment of the tie rods is needed. You would be better off with a rag joint eliminator for unbalanced engineering. http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/



Eliminates the factory rubber-fiber rag joint which can degrade and introduce steering slop. This is especially true on cars with the additional heat generated by headers. The kit includes a CNC machined coupler made from 6061-T6 aluminum which is then anodized black for corrosion resistance, and four grade 8 fasteners. A set of detailed installation instructions is also included. Cost $35

[fastTa]

The LS1 steering shaft does not have a rag joint. The LS1 flange coupling and the splined connector are slightly different then the factory LT1 steering shaft. The car will still have a correct alignment and will still drive straight, but if you want the steering wheel to be centered you will need to go have a 2 wheel alignment.

[Z Ya Later]

Thanks guys. I thought about the eliminator Joe and am still considering it, depending on what needs to be done to get the LS1 shaft to work.

Now, couldn't the steering wheel be re-oriented on the column instead of doing a front end alignment? Or would that be more work than its worth?

[fastTa]

Thanks guys. I thought about the eliminator Joe and am still considering it, depending on what needs to be done to get the LS1 shaft to work.

Now, couldn't the steering wheel be re-oriented on the column instead of doing a front end alignment? Or would that be more work than its worth?

Yes, the steering wheel can be re-oriented on the upper splined steering shaft but it's bit of a pain in the ass to remove the steering wheel. It would be much more efficient to just correct the steering wheel center with an alignment.

[FroSSty]

It has been a while since I have looked at an f-body steering column...However, usually the column splines have one spline that is thicker than the rest so the steering wheel can only go on one way...Hopefully someone can chime in who has one apart right now to look at.

[Joe 1320]

Stevo.... just get the rag joint eliminator.

[Z Ya Later]

Stevo.... just get the rag joint eliminator.

Yeah, that's the conclusion I've come to lol. Does the cover still fit with the eliminator in place? Also, how long roughly does it take to install?

[Joe 1320]

Yeah, that's the conclusion I've come to lol. Does the cover still fit with the eliminator in place? Also, how long roughly does it take to install?

I didn't use the cover as there is no real reason to have it anymore. There is no fiber joint to degrade from heat. I'm not sure it would have fit with the headers anyway. The swap time depends on your tools. You'll need a grinder to remove the rivets on the stock rag joint, That is what takes the most time out of the whole proceedure. I think I did mine in a hour and there is no re-alignment needed.

[Z Ya Later]

I didn't use the cover as there is no real reason to have it anymore. There is no fiber joint to degrade from heat. I'm not sure it would have fit with the headers anyway. The swap time depends on your tools. You'll need a grinder to remove the rivets on the stock rag joint, That is what takes the most time out of the whole proceedure. I think I did mine in a hour and there is no re-alignment needed.

Bench or angle?

Ok, looks like I'll need to order that in the near future

[fastTa]

Bench or angle?

Ok, looks like I'll need to order that in the near future

I used an air cut-off wheel to cut the rivet heads off. But a Dremel with a cut-off disc would probably be the next best thing.

Pull the steering shaft out first of course, and then put the rag joint in your vise to make life easy.

I haven't personally used the UE kit, but you might have to drill the holes out just a bit to fit the bolts that come with the UE kit. I heard from a few guys that you do. Joe will know that one.

I used the Flaming River rag joint elim kit and I didn't have to.

You will notice a little more vibration in the steering wheel without the rag joint.

[Z Ya Later]

I used an air cut-off wheel to cut the rivet heads off. But a Dremel with a cut-off disc would probably be the next best thing.

Pull the steering shaft out first of course, and then put the rag joint in your vise to make life easy.

I haven't personally used the UE kit, but you might have to drill the holes out just a bit to fit the bolts that come with the UE kit. I heard from a few guys that you do. Joe will know that one.

I used the Flaming River rag joint elim kit and I didn't have to.

You will notice a little more vibration in the steering wheel without the rag joint.

You got a link to that one?

[fastTa]

You got a link to that one?

I ordered it by phone when I ordered the manual rack and battery kill switch for the Camaro.

Their site is www.flamingriver.com

[Z Ya Later]

I ordered it by phone when I ordered the manual rack and battery kill switch for the Camaro.

Their site is www.flamingriver.com

Yeah, I know the site yard-ape, but I couldn't find the eliminator. Sheesh lol

[fastTa]

Yeah, I know the site yard-ape, but I couldn't find the eliminator. Sheesh lol

There is a lot of stuff they sell that is not on their site. I remember looking for it also and I couldn't find it.

Another thing, pick up a Loctite blue threadlocker stick. It's alot easier to apply than the liquid stuff. You don't want to lose your steering bolts!