Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

HEEELP... not running...

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • HEEELP... not running...

    car is a 95 formula lt-1 6speed. just turned 100k.

    ok, i'll start from the top. had a radiator leak. replaced the radiator. took the car for a ride and excersized it a little about the end of a 1/4 mile i went to turn around and the car just bogged down bad. on the way back from my test road it ran bad with a miss. when i got home in my driveway it was missing at idle. i shut it off. later i went to pull it into my garage and it wouldn't start. it would crank and crank and eventually back fire threw the intake. i figured the opti had gotten wet with the coolant leak. it also just turned 100k. i opted to replace with an accel unit and all new msd wires. after replacing the opti and the wires i went to start. it does the same thing now i'm thinking my little beat ride might have caused it to jump a tooth on the t-chain. i pulled the t-cover and the valve covers. check with the dots straight up that the rockers on the #1 are both loose. the tchain has some slack but hasn't jumped a tooth. my next step is a compression check. everything is ok there too. i can rule out mechaincal failure. i thought perhaps i installed the opti wrong and replaced again. it only goes on one way. it won't seat any other way. re-checked the firing order. it's fine. last night i checked for spark using an interupt light. put it inline with the coil wire to the opti. i'm getting a spark. nothing to the wires tho one would think the opti is bad right? pulled and checked the continuity of the cap and the plug leads. (brand new cap) it's fine. i'm thinking that i'm getting a fire signal but it's out of time. the motor has caught but sounds like it's running 180 out. doesn't really run, just a series of missfires. and pops threw the intake when it's done. the only thing i haven't checked (my meter is fubared) is that i'm getting a 1-4v/ac from terminal b to ground on my ignition control module. i'm starting to think the icm has gone bad or i have ecm issue's. any suggestions?? my first thought was to replace the icm with a known good one. it's also a 95 so it has the obd2 connector and it's obd1. been searching on how to obtain a code from this wacky set up. haven't found out how. i'm getting a code . if i could read it, it would help me figure what's going on. also i've checked for fuel pressure. not with a gauge but i bled off the valve and then had someone crank it. there's good pressure. besides, i highly doubt it's a fuel issue as it's back firing threw the intake. HEEEEELP!

  • #2
    If I remember correct, the opti drive pin length was changed sometime in 95. I have seen issues where the long dowel pin on the cam pushes against the base plate of the opti, putting too much pressure on the cap and rotor causing a very short life and subsequent conditions like what you describe. It is possible that the opti that you replaced was set up for a short dowel and you installed it correctly, albiet destroying it in the process. You cannot use the opti bolts to pull the distributer into the cover. It must seat on it's own and only be secured with the bolts.
    since you are getting spark from the coil into the opti but you aren't getting the right spark exiting the opti that narrows things down somewhat. Are you sure the firing order is correct as well?

    Comment


    • #3
      While you may think the Opti "only goes on one way. it won't seat any other way.".... it is quite possible to index it incorrectly. I'd estimate at least 10% of the Opti installs have problems due to the dowel (or the spline in the 93/94s) going into the wrong hole.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

      Comment


      • #4
        hmmm.. interesting. i actually tried to install it using one of the other 2 holes. the housing won't seat correctly. i'm still working on this thing. i've had two other's look at it with me. both have been wrenching on cars 20+ years. i'm thinking it's the icm. my meter is broke so i can't take an ac. reading to find if it's triggering correctly.

        Comment


        • #5
          i d try with a new coil too, they are not expensive, its worth getting a new one, maybe the spark is not powerful enough
          93 t/a A4 3.23s
          95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
          99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
          99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
          97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
          93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
          00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

          Comment


          • #6
            yep... that's what i'm leaning tword. going to take the car off the road and put it up in the garage for the winter. (mod time ) ordered a new msd coil today. going to put an ad in the classifieds for a ignition control module as well. when i had my bud crank it i noticed it isn't getting spark. i have one of those spark flash things and it was flashing when it was back firing. i'm certain it's the coil or the icm. figured i'd get a used/known good one for cheap and see what it does. thanks for all the replies

            Comment

            Working...
            X