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    ok i'm relatively new on here and i have a '95 t/a convertible with extreme performance mods, and i was looking into 4" mufflex exhaust systems but i was curious if any one was familar with them i'm looking into the 4" hide away system with the spintech muffler, i was wondering if they have any ground clearance issues, how it sounds, if the y-pipe would fit pacesetter full length headers, if it's worth the money. i noticed "Joe" that you have the 4" mufflex on your '97 how is that workin for and what system do you have. if anyone has any other suggestions on exhaust, or a good set of sub frame connectors i'm all ears, but the exhaust needs to be able to support 600+ RWHP. kind of a sleeper to the average joe "No pun intended sorry" but not to a gear head. thanks for the help
    '95 T/A Conv., Green, Tan Top
    '00 T/A Silver
    '86 Chevy RCSB 4WD (LS1 to go in)

  • #2
    I have a 4" mufflex with a spintech and a mufflex y pipe. The only problem I had was that the passenger side collector flange on the Y pipe, which is welded solid not a slip fit didnt match up to the holes on my hooker long tubes, and I dont mean it was a little off it was waaaay off. I ended up cutting it off, rotating it to line up and re welding it. It may not have even been a mufflex problem, hooker may have welded the flange on incorectly. I also did some work on the other parts of the Y. To me some of the pieces were a little long, not letting them insert far enough into other pieces to get max ground clearance. So I did some cutting and fitting, and it ended up tucked up well with good ground clearance. The bend over the axle was a little to sharp to me causing the muffler to hang kinda low, so i cut almost all of the way through the bend so i could spread it apart which raised the muffler up, then I cut a piece of old exhaust pipe to fit the gap in the pipe, welded it up and it was done. Overall im happy with it, it sounds awesome and looks cool. I say go for it.
    1994 Z28 Camaro-Project carbed 4th gen
    1995 Silverado-beater truck
    2005 Colorado Z71-Daily driver

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    • #3
      I have the 4" mufflex single outlet with the flowmaster with the stealth tip. I love the look of a hidden exhaust. Clearance over the axle was really tight, I opted for the BMR panhard rod relocation kit. The kit was designed to allow dual 3" pipes over the axle, it works great for the 4" as well. A few others were able to squeeze it into place using the stock panhard rod location, I wasn't one of them. The rest of my combo is SLP shorties, random tech high flow Y pipe with dual bullet cats. Just under the seats and to the rear of the cats it forms a Y and culminates into the 4" mufflex cat back. The quality of the mufflex is very good, the sound is great, I'm happy. No rattles, no other clearance issues, I say go for it too!

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      • #4
        sweet that's good to hear that's really the best option that i've found when you look at performance and driveability. i don't suppose you know of any good subframe connectors to recommend i'm not very familar with the options. appreciate the help.
        '95 T/A Conv., Green, Tan Top
        '00 T/A Silver
        '86 Chevy RCSB 4WD (LS1 to go in)

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        • #5
          Originally posted by strkt_&_blwn
          sweet that's good to hear that's really the best option that i've found when you look at performance and driveability. i don't suppose you know of any good subframe connectors to recommend i'm not very familar with the options. appreciate the help.
          I dont think you can go wrong with BMR fab stuff. I installed a set of their boxed weld in type connectors on my car, and I think the fit and build quality is great.
          1994 Z28 Camaro-Project carbed 4th gen
          1995 Silverado-beater truck
          2005 Colorado Z71-Daily driver

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          • #6
            awesome thanks, i appreciate it. do you think i should probably do more than that being i'm in the 600-650 RWHP range?
            '95 T/A Conv., Green, Tan Top
            '00 T/A Silver
            '86 Chevy RCSB 4WD (LS1 to go in)

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            • #7
              I had the 4" Mufflex with the Flowmaster single-outlet (Joe has it now). Worked with my 800HP nitrous setup. A buddy of mine pushed over 1,125 flywheel HP from a blown 383 through it, and it worked great. We pulled the Mufflex system off his 30th SS for weight savings (50#) and went to Borla XR-1's bolted directly to the collectors. The car did not gain any HP, indicating that the Mufflex was up to the task.

              The Flowmaster is far from "stealth" with a healthy throb and a strong resonance at 2,500rpm. I've ridden in an LT1 belonging to the owner of Mufflex, with the SpinTech dual-outlet muffler, and its a lot quieter than the FlowMaster. Denny ran the car at E'town with both mufflers on it, and found no difference in track times, but the car was probably making less than 500HP, so it wasn't necessarily a valid comparison for higher HP setups.

              No ground clearance problems, Mufflex managed to get it over the stock panhard rod upper brace, although it was wedged in tight. My 3" Y-pipe was built from the collectors back in the Mufflex shop, so the fit was perfect.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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              • #8
                i see i appreciate the help. i have just a few more questions for ya. i'm just curious what if you think my predictions are realistic. like i said my car is a '95 T/A. i'm currently building the engine just on the machine shop to so i can finish. it's now a 383 with forged lower end, h-beam rods, and 8.5/1 pistons. i'm having the heads massively ported and polished and the valves changed to 202/160. the valve train is all comp cams with a a custom ground cam specs are 242/248/584/579/114. also have new comp roller lifters and 1.5 rr's. 65# injectors and a stage 2 P1-SC procharger kit with twin high flow inner coolers. pushing just under 15psi boost. now everyone that i've talked to tells me i should be around 600 RWHP. from my opinion i thought that would be easy to achieve. but i was just curous what you all thought what kind of power i should be around realistically. also i bought a stage 3 spec clutch and pressure plate to you think that'll hold it? it's rated to 620 ft-lbs. thanks for the help.
                '95 T/A Conv., Green, Tan Top
                '00 T/A Silver
                '86 Chevy RCSB 4WD (LS1 to go in)

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by strkt_&_blwn
                  i also i bought a stage 3 spec clutch and pressure plate to you think that'll hold it? it's rated to 620 ft-lbs. thanks for the help.
                  Maybe it would last with conservative use, but one thing to remember...... turbos and nitrous means massive torque. I don't think it would live long if pressed.

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                  • #10
                    wow that sucks to hear oh well i suppose it'll have to do for now.... it'll go or blow. just money right? do you think that guesstimate is to far fetched for hp?
                    '95 T/A Conv., Green, Tan Top
                    '00 T/A Silver
                    '86 Chevy RCSB 4WD (LS1 to go in)

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