Since I just had to replace my water pump, I figured I would post a few things that will help others save some time and hassle on the proccedure. The bearings on mine were really starting to scream so I replaced it before it came apart. 
You'll need 8mm,10mm,15mm deep and shallow sockets with extensions , 3/4" deep socket as well as a 9/16 crescent wrench. Large vice grips to open the hose clamps, gasket scraper to remove old gasket material from the front of the engine once the water pump is removed. A set of rhino ramps are really helpful for clearance underneath the front of the car.
Take the new water pump and use a few small dabs of silicone on the gasket surfaces and apply the water pump gaskets to the water pump, set aside and let it set up. This aids in keeping the gaskets in place on installation.
now for the dirty work.
1. Disconnect the battery. It is possible to skip this, but not the safest.
2. Disconnect the MAF, opti vent tube, air pump hose, IAT sensor and remove
the intake duct assembly all the way up to the throttle body.
3. Remove the top cover to the radiator/condensor.
4. Remove the drain plug from the lower part of the radiator (passenger side)
to drain the radiator.
5. Pull the fan assembly upward about and inch to release it from it's
mounting clips.
6. Manouver the fan assembly downward for clearance to the water pump, it
is not necessary to remove it from the vehicle.
7. Remove the air pump from the front of the engine (94-97) and push aside,
it's not necessary to remove it completely. (cannot skip this)
8. Disconnect the driver's side spark plug wires from the optispark distributer.
9. Remove the air pump bracket from the front of the engine. (15mm bolts, and 9/16 nut)
10.Remove the hose clamps and hoses from the water pump, let the fluid drain
11. Remove the lower water pump bolt on the driver's side (15mm), let the
coolant drain.
12. Remove the remaining water pump stud and bolt from the driver's side,
remove the 3 bolts securing the water pump on the passenger side.
13. Pull the water pump foreward and remove from vehicle.
14. Use a 3/4 inch deep socket to remove the coolant sensor to the new
pump.
15. Use 8mm socket to remove the thermostat housing bolts, remove the
thermostat and O-ring. If it tests good, transfer to the new water pump.
16. Thoroughly clean the front of the engine, make sure there are no traces
of the old gaskets.
17. Carefull slide the new water pump on the drive shaft, seating the pump
against the front of the engine block.
18. re-installation is in the reverse order.
One handy tool that really aids in the final fluid fill and bleeding proceedure is a cooling system pressure testor. With one of these, you can add water and use the pressure testor to check for leaks without firing the engine, it also forces the fluid into the block an allows the first bleed proceedures to be done cold.
Be advised that bleeding the air is critical and may take several attempts to fully purge all the air.
Total time is 2 to 2.5 hours if you are skilled, 3 to 3.5 hours if you're a novice.
I typed this from memory so if I forgot something, feel free to add to the thread.
You'll need 8mm,10mm,15mm deep and shallow sockets with extensions , 3/4" deep socket as well as a 9/16 crescent wrench. Large vice grips to open the hose clamps, gasket scraper to remove old gasket material from the front of the engine once the water pump is removed. A set of rhino ramps are really helpful for clearance underneath the front of the car.
Take the new water pump and use a few small dabs of silicone on the gasket surfaces and apply the water pump gaskets to the water pump, set aside and let it set up. This aids in keeping the gaskets in place on installation.
now for the dirty work.
1. Disconnect the battery. It is possible to skip this, but not the safest.
2. Disconnect the MAF, opti vent tube, air pump hose, IAT sensor and remove
the intake duct assembly all the way up to the throttle body.
3. Remove the top cover to the radiator/condensor.
4. Remove the drain plug from the lower part of the radiator (passenger side)
to drain the radiator.
5. Pull the fan assembly upward about and inch to release it from it's
mounting clips.
6. Manouver the fan assembly downward for clearance to the water pump, it
is not necessary to remove it from the vehicle.
7. Remove the air pump from the front of the engine (94-97) and push aside,
it's not necessary to remove it completely. (cannot skip this)
8. Disconnect the driver's side spark plug wires from the optispark distributer.
9. Remove the air pump bracket from the front of the engine. (15mm bolts, and 9/16 nut)
10.Remove the hose clamps and hoses from the water pump, let the fluid drain
11. Remove the lower water pump bolt on the driver's side (15mm), let the
coolant drain.
12. Remove the remaining water pump stud and bolt from the driver's side,
remove the 3 bolts securing the water pump on the passenger side.
13. Pull the water pump foreward and remove from vehicle.
14. Use a 3/4 inch deep socket to remove the coolant sensor to the new
pump.
15. Use 8mm socket to remove the thermostat housing bolts, remove the
thermostat and O-ring. If it tests good, transfer to the new water pump.
16. Thoroughly clean the front of the engine, make sure there are no traces
of the old gaskets.
17. Carefull slide the new water pump on the drive shaft, seating the pump
against the front of the engine block.
18. re-installation is in the reverse order.
One handy tool that really aids in the final fluid fill and bleeding proceedure is a cooling system pressure testor. With one of these, you can add water and use the pressure testor to check for leaks without firing the engine, it also forces the fluid into the block an allows the first bleed proceedures to be done cold.
Be advised that bleeding the air is critical and may take several attempts to fully purge all the air. Total time is 2 to 2.5 hours if you are skilled, 3 to 3.5 hours if you're a novice.
I typed this from memory so if I forgot something, feel free to add to the thread.
