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95 LT1 formula will not stay running...

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  • #1

    95 LT1 formula will not stay running...

    I was driving today and the car just died, I could barley get it to idle, and sometime I couldnt even get it to idle or start it would just stall and wouldnt move, but I know it was getting spark
    because it would sputter. so I got it towed back to the house. got some
    starter fluid and a new fuel filter. I tried to run the car off the starter
    fluid Sprayining it into the intake, I tried giving
    alittle gas (throttle) to open the butterfly while my friend sprayed the fluid in the intake and
    then it ran fine. I have no idea what it could be
    Should I replace the fuel pump?

    Does anyone have any idea's what it might be or what i can try

    Thanks Tommy
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Without getting it scanned anything is just a guess. You could spend a lot of money trying stuff without scanning it first.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      Of all the experiences I've had with the same type of issue before, it sure does sound like a fuel pump.
      Can you hear the pump "prime" when you turn the key just to the "on" position before cranking it?
      1996 White T/A, LT-1 auto with only aftermarket Flowmasters, shift kit, and a LG Motorsports G2 cold air kit.....that's it! She can't eat all the 'Stangs but will die trying.

      Currently on the clock: 120K

      Comment

      • #4
        I dont here a any noise would it come from the back by the fuel tank?

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by cali108
          I dont here a any noise would it come from the back by the fuel tank?
          yes .
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment

          • #6
            nope nothing! I guess thats it! thanks..

            Comment

            • #7
              There's a test connection that allows you to power the fuel pump temporarily to test it, bypassing the PCM and relay. Shoebox has a photo on his Tech Pages. You do need to get it scanned. For example, DTC 16 for loss of low resolution pulse from the Opti causes the fuel system to shut down and the engine will not run. But you would still hear the pump run for about 2 seconds when you turn the key to the "on" position.

              http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

              Comment

              • #8
                Should I just run some power to that prime wire? I do have a scanner, it came with the car. I just havent figure out how to use it yet. I just got the bird a few weeks ago. (Switching over form owning a few stangs) i also tried changing out the fuel filter, and wound up twisting & breaking the fuel line. now Ive got 2 problems..
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by cali108
                  Should I just run some power to that prime wire? I do have a scanner, it came with the car. I just havent figure out how to use it yet. I just got the bird a few weeks ago. (Switching over form owning a few stangs) i also tried changing out the fuel filter, and wound up twisting & breaking the fuel line. now Ive got 2 problems..
                  What kind of scanner is it? You can probably find a manual for it online.

                  I'm the former owner of a stang too. This car is quite different than a stang. You have different things to deal with like the OPTI. The computer has 43 different parameter that the scanner can read. You can also get a cable that you can plug a laptop into the port under the dash and see those parameters in a graphical format like a virtual dashboard. I reprogrammed mine. It's really easy.
                  2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                  1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                  A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Its a scanmaster scanner, I'll look up the manual online. thanks..

                    Tommy

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by cali108
                      Its a scanmaster scanner, I'll look up the manual online. thanks..

                      Tommy
                      They never really wrote a manual for the ScanMaster........ but I did

                      http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm
                      Fred

                      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Injuneer
                        They never really wrote a manual for the ScanMaster........ but I did

                        http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm

                        I have a scanmaster on my GN, the instructions only cover installation. You have to know what you're doing in it's use. Props to ya Fred, it needed to be done.

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                        • #13
                          I've got the scanmaster hooked up! It lites up for about 2 seconds then completely shuts off. wtf I'm using port 5 for ground port 16 for power. Am I doing something wrong? I also tried the test wire for the fuel pump and I disconnected the line at the filter. no fuel came out when I gave it power.

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                          • #14
                            It means its not getting a "signal" from the ALDL connector. The 95 LT1 has a screwed up wiring configuration, because it uses a 16-pin OBD-II ALDL connector on an OBD-I PCM. Make sure you have the Scanmaster white signal wire attached to the pin that has the light tan signal harness wire attached to it.
                            Fred

                            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                            • #15
                              ok great thanks for the tip... I got it working you were right that tan wire was at another port. ok so now what do I look for?

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