New Fuel Lines

[Torque]

Anybody ever done custom fuel lines/re-routing the fuel lines? My stock lines are too close to my exhaust (y pipe) and it's getting my fuel way too hot. All the lines I see in magazines is for the race fittings, are there any adaptors to fit onto the stock fuel rails? I don't feel like custom fab. on the fuel rails and stock fuel pump....

[BAS]

Re: New Fuel Lines

I built my own lines from pipe you
buy in a autoparts store. 3/8" is tough
to bend.. best bends by hand.

You can get fittings to connect the
straight pipes without flaring them.

There was a thread on MAFB list about
this.. umm, basically, they were of
the opinion that your fuel line won't
catch on fire so no need to worry.
(There isn't any O2 there)..

Originally posted by Torque
Anybody ever done custom fuel lines/re-routing the fuel lines? My stock lines are too close to my exhaust (y pipe) and it's getting my fuel way too hot. All the lines I see in magazines is for the race fittings, are there any adaptors to fit onto the stock fuel rails? I don't feel like custom fab. on the fuel rails and stock fuel pump....

[Torque]

I will look up the thread... I agree, no fire risk, just tons of HP lost with hot intake charges. This is why they make cool fuel cans to cool your fuel before injection. Tons of HP with cool intake charge....

I bet with my current setup, I am losing easily 15HP. Hopefully, will see on the dyno this Sat...

[Injuneer]

I've done complete -AN lines for the entire fuel sytem. Involves, obviously, welding fittings to the back of the rails, and use of a stand-alone fuel pressure regulator. For stock fuel lines, consider use of the aluminized/insulated heat protection wrap on the fuel lines. Limited/localized header wrap on the exhaust pipe, and use of a fuel cooler... a good idea on any recirculated system using high flow pumps. Fuel density = HP. Heat the fuel, reduce the density and power goes down.

[Torque]

I really like that setup! That looks awesome! How did you plumb into the fuel tank? I think I will probably just pull the rail (or get another one) and have this done.

I do currently have wrapped headers, all my fuel line is covered with the heat prevention tape and sheilds. My problem is I welded high flow 3" cats into my Mufflex Y pipe and the wrapped fuel lines basically sit on the one on the driver's side. I gutted the cat so it's not as hot, but you can't really wrap the cat like you can normal exhaust and I have not found a way to plumb in a cool can into the stock lines so I figured I should gut the whole thing and do what you did.

Did you have to drop the fuel tank and weld in a new pickup?

[Injuneer]

My tank was pulled for a complete fuel system replacement. The in-tank pump was replaced with a Bosch 205lph pump, and the supply and return fittings on the top of the tank had -6AN fittings welded on. I don't have any pictures of that.

Then a sump was built in the bottom/rear of the tank, and a -10AN line added on the tank for an additional Bosch pump mounted outboard.



The second Bosch 205lph pump is mounted on the floorpan, in front of the axle - this pump only runs when the nitrous system is armed:



The discharges from the two pumps are each -6AN, and meet in a "Y" in front of the outboard pump, and go through an SX billet fuel filter:



A single -6AN line runs to the front of the car and up behind the engine, where it goes through another "Y" and splits into two -6AN lines. Each of the supply lines goes into the back of one of the fuel rails. The drivers side is in the picture in teh earlier post, and the passenger side is:



That way, only 1/2 of the fuel goes into the back of each rail, instead of putting all the fuel in the passenger side rail, and taking the return/FPR off the drivers side. My return line is another -6AN line, connected to the diagonal cross-over pipe:



Then the return line goes to the Weldon AFPR mounted under the cowl, which you can see in the views of the connections on the back of the rails. There is also a bung added to the passenger side rail for the fuel pressure sending unit.

This system will support up to 1,000HP, but right now I am only making a shade under 800HP with almost 300-shot of dry nitrous. The system runs at 58psi, and I am running 64# Bosch injectors, which will flow 78#/HR at that pressure.

[Torque]

Thanks for posting that! That is incredible! That is by far the best looking fuel setup I have ever seen on an f-body. That definitely took some serious time and effort! I probably don't need to go to that extreme but eventually want to head in that direction.

For now I need to figure out a way to get a bad kink out of one of the stock lines I pulled away from the exhaust.

You think stock fuel pressure would blow off a normal fuel line with hose clamps? Not a long term solution, just an idea to get my by in the short term until I get another fuel rail to weld on.

[Injuneer]

The first change I ever made to the system was adding the NOS/Bosch inline booster fuel pump. That kit came with "barbed" hose fittings that allowed the inline pump to be inserted into the system (right where it still site in the picture) using hoses, and without cutting the stock lines. There was an adapter fitting that had a "barb" on one end and the "GM" fitting that attaches to the stock fuel filter on the other. The kit came with 2 woRm clamps for each barbed fitting. The rubber hose was extremely heavy wall, fabric reinforced.

The system operated at 85-90psi when the dry N2O system was spraying, and the hoses held fine. I think the key is to use the barbed fittings, high pressure (fuel rated) rubber hose and DOUBLE clamps.

This is the only picture I could find of the old system....

[Torque]

I will give it a shot and see if it works. Double clamps is a good idea. I will just get a really long section of the highest quality hose I can find to use as a test setup, clamp the heck out of it between the filter and the fuel rail, turn the key and see if it looks like it is going to hold. If it does, I will go ahead and start re-routing fuel line.

I agree with you about the barbed fittings, my biggest concern is of the stock components I will be using (i.e. the fuel rail) have fittings with multiple barbs on them as I would like. Hopefully that one barb will work.

Thanks!

[BAS]

Unleaded fuel requires flueroelastomer rubber lines

You can't use the old style fuel lines.

They are supposed to say Flueroelastomer or something like that on them.

You can buy it in the parts store.


Dorman parts carry some fuel fittings
that match up to the fuel rail, and
also one that connect to the fuel
filter. I had mine special ordered.
But later saw them stocked in Pep Boys.

[Torque]

Great, thanks for the info. Will look this up.