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  • Cold air intake kit,installation tips?

    Hi,had my k&n cold air kit arrive this morning,im going to be fitting it later today,does anybody have any tips or advice on fitting these?Do they make much difference in power and sound?should i reset the ecu after ive fitted it,or will it re learn its new settings itself?

    Thanks in advance

  • #2
    Some details as to what Year car you have, What CAI kit you got?
    Eddie
    2000 M6 Trans Am
    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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    • #3
      Oh yes,ive got a 1996 trans am lt1,its a k&n cold air kit,basically,some chrome plated pipes,and a k&n cone filter for the end of the pipes.

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      • #4
        If the K&N filter is already oiled (it will be red), do NOT add any oil. Too much oil can cause oil buildup on the MAF sensor, and screw up the air flow readings. If it doesn't already have oil, follow the instructions very carefully.

        There is no need to reset the PCM (ecu). There will be a small increase in air flow, and the mass air sensor will see the added air flow, and the PCM will add the extra fuel. There is nothing to "reset" and nothing to "learn".

        There's a typical 10HP gain. I never noticed any difference in sound with my Callaway Honker.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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        • #5
          Its easy, you need to remove the driver side air dam cover, Then remove the stock air box and all that junk. Then you have to drill the holes for the Plate. The simply put the K&N tube down then add the filter. I can get pictures if you'd like. My brother has a 96 Z with the K&N Kit.
          Eddie
          2000 M6 Trans Am
          Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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          • #6
            Ok thanks guys,its almost done now,but its a tight fit by the abs pump,and the radiator cover,its just resting on the abs brake pipes at the min,the bonnet still shuts ok though

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            • #7
              Do most people replace the air damn cover at the bottom?Is it safe to leave it off?

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              • #8
                Put the bottom plastic cover back on. It will keep a large splash from a puddle from flooding the filter.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Trans am Man
                  Do most people replace the air damn cover at the bottom?Is it safe to leave it off?
                  I cut a hole in mine, to provide cooler air...very slim difference. But then i cut the portion of the radiator air dam that is in front and noticed a small difference at highway speeds. I'm sure you'll get even better results if you add a scoop or airdam to the hole. But like fred said you risk flooding the filter. So far, i've had no problems though.
                  2006 Saturn Ion Redline
                  2003 Mits. Eclipse Spyder

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                  • #10
                    On my brother's car we went ahead and fashioned up some brackets and make it like a scoop. Works alright. As for the flooding, we dont see much rain here in So. Cal so its not to much of a problem.
                    Eddie
                    2000 M6 Trans Am
                    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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