94 T/A GT LT1 no spark help please!!!!!

[k9tool]

howdy all. i have a 94 ta gt 6 speed .. 2 years ago i had a real bad oil leak from the front main seal . the car wasnt running bad but i was dumpin oil at an insane rate. anyways i decided to take the car off the road to fix this . well i also decided to do the water pump ,opti,cap and rotor, plugs and wires. 2 weeks later car was ready to start. went to start it, nothing!!so i made sure that the car was getting fuel(i could hear the pump prime for bout 2-4 seconds,checked the valve on the fuel rail and it sprayed fuel out the i put gas in a spray bottle and opened the t/b and turned the engine over ) again nothing. so then i checked for spark and i found it was getting no spark i checked the #1 and the # 4 and the #5 just to make sure no spark at all. so i thought it was a bad coil i bought a new gm and still nothing then i bought a new ign. control module from auto zone still nothing then i thought the ecm might be bad so i bought a new one (not a reman) and had it flashed ,put it in still nothing. ive also replaced the wiring harness to the coil . ive also re-replaced the distributor . again nothing. it should be noted that i bought the opti from autozone as well. any help you can give me on this would be greatly apprecieated as this is getting real old real fast. ive been with out this car for 2 years (no joke) thanks again
Kevin

[LS1 TA]

I am not sure how closely related the two are, but I had a similar problem with my 89 TA. After frustrating trouble shooting and some un-needed parts, I discovered it was the fuseable link between the battery and the ECM. Like I said I don'n know how related, if any, the two are, I am just throwing that out as a possibility. I am sure one of the more senior guys on here will hit the problem on the head for you.

[Trans Am]

i would make sure the wiring harness is ok, even the key cylininder and the related switches, i suppose you installed the opti correctly?
Have you got spark at the coil? the small wire going from the coil to the optispark?
have you got injector pulse? (this will show the pcm wiring to the injectors is ok, use a test lamp or lightbulb [the one from the center console will be fine] , plug it in the harness instead of an injector and crank the engine...it should flash)

If all the related parts are new and installed correctly , i d chech the wiring harnes, from the key cylindeer to the pcm, and from the pcm to the ignition control module
Man I know how it is to have the car not running for such a long time...sucks.. Good luck and let us know how you get on

[Joe 1320]

here is a proceedure to troubleshoot a no start condition:

Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
If no spark exists, go to step 2.

Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.

Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
12v. If power go to b.
b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.

Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
the test light is on, go to step 5.

Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
you will use is located on the passenger side of the
engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
no flashes, replace the ignition module.

If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
faulty module or optispark. Module = Cheap$$, optispark
=moderate $$$.

[Trans Am]

another thing..the connector to the optispark, is that ok? the oil leak might have damaged it or the wires

[oramac5891]

This might sound dumb but I have to mention it. When you replaced the distributor did you install the "drive pin" that connects the distributor to the camshaft? I replaced mine several years ago, but if I remember right the new distributor that I purchased did not come with that "pin" so I had to re-use the old one. Just thought I'd throw that out there. Good luck.