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  • car running too cold

    The car barely gets over 160 no matter how much I drive. It won't warm up.

    I'm going to assume the thermostat is bad and staying open. Any other suggestions? I haven't had any problems with this car other than the fuel pump going bad so I'm not under the hood much.

    Anything else I should check out? It's gotta be killing my gas mileage.
    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines


  • #2
    Originally posted by raroZ28
    The car barely gets over 160 no matter how much I drive. It won't warm up.

    I'm going to assume the thermostat is bad and staying closed. Any other suggestions? I haven't had any problems with this car other than the fuel pump going bad so I'm not under the hood much.

    Anything else I should check out? It's gotta be killing my gas mileage.
    If your thermostat were staying closed, the car would overheat within minutes. The thermostat is designed to stay closed to allow a rapid warm up, then open when the temperature reaches a certain point. Most likely a 160º thermostat was installed by a previous owner.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Joe 1320
      If your thermostat were staying closed, the car would overheat within minutes. The thermostat is designed to stay closed to allow a rapid warm up, then open when the temperature reaches a certain point. Most likely a 160º thermostat was installed by a previous owner.
      no, what i meant was it's staying open. my bad.

      Also, I've owned the car for about 3 years and it's never done this.
      97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

      01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by raroZ28
        The car barely gets over 160 no matter how much I drive. It won't warm up.

        I'm going to assume the thermostat is bad and staying open. Any other suggestions? I haven't had any problems with this car other than the fuel pump going bad so I'm not under the hood much.

        Anything else I should check out? It's gotta be killing my gas mileage.
        Well a thermostat is cheap and pretty easy to change on these cars, you could replace it and see how that affects the temp. Now i have a 160* thermo, and a tune and my car gets to about 170-175* and stays there.

        Also to keep in mind is that if you have a tune(which i didn't see in your list of mods) then you'll need a lower temp thermo then stock. I think stock was 195*, guys correct me if i'm wrong.
        2006 Saturn Ion Redline
        2003 Mits. Eclipse Spyder

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by raroZ28
          no, what i meant was it's staying open. my bad.

          Also, I've owned the car for about 3 years and it's never done this.
          Not your fault, I misread the post.

          What are you using to measure the temps? Reading the data stream with a scanner or going by the factory gauge?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by ryan34
            Well a thermostat is cheap and pretty easy to change on these cars, you could replace it and see how that affects the temp. Now i have a 160* thermo, and a tune and my car gets to about 170-175* and stays there.

            Also to keep in mind is that if you have a tune(which i didn't see in your list of mods) then you'll need a lower temp thermo then stock. I think stock was 195*, guys correct me if i'm wrong.
            Stock thermostat is 180°.
            Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Joe 1320
              Not your fault, I misread the post.

              What are you using to measure the temps? Reading the data stream with a scanner or going by the factory gauge?
              nah i edited it, youre not goin senile like the wolf yet (j/k, I love the wolf)

              I'm going by the stock gauge. I was thinking it could be the sensor on the d/s head inbetween the first and second primary, but when i put the heat on full blast it's lukewarm at best. in heavy traffic today, it was up to about 175, but once I get moving it cools down quick.
              97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

              01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by raroZ28
                nah i edited it, youre not goin senile like the wolf yet (j/k, I love the wolf)

                I'm going by the stock gauge. I was thinking it could be the sensor on the d/s head inbetween the first and second primary, but when i put the heat on full blast it's lukewarm at best. in heavy traffic today, it was up to about 175, but once I get moving it cools down quick.
                mine is luke warm at best too, i just thought it was an f-body thing...

                Does anyone know if its because of the thermostat?

                Oh...and thanks for the correction shoebox
                2006 Saturn Ion Redline
                2003 Mits. Eclipse Spyder

                Comment


                • #9
                  My car always warms up to about 190 and the heater works great! Now that I said this I will probably be asking how to change the heater core next week.
                  1999 Ram Air Trans Am. M6

                  SFC( not sure what kind), drilled/slotted rotors, K&N air filter, all free mods, 3" Borla cat back exaust, electric exaust cut out, NGK spark plugs, royal purple motor oil, and Zaino .Maybe more. I find more stuff done to it everytime I look at it.

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                  • #10
                    Yeah Mine warms up just right and the heater is great. Mine stays at around 175- 200 degress, and thats off the Tech II at the dealer, (I would have my buddy sneak out the scanner for the weekend!!!) Evil I know. ha ha ha
                    Eddie
                    2000 M6 Trans Am
                    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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                    • #11
                      Is it possible your fans are running constantly because you are running the HVAC in the A/C or "defrost" position, or beause you have a diagnostic code set that turns the fans on (e.g. burned out fuse on the AIR pump)?

                      Check the PCM with a scanner to confirm what the other sensor is saying, as suggested above.

                      Even with a stuck open t'stat, I'd still expect the engine to get warmer than 160* at idle or in heavy, slow moving traffic.
                      Fred

                      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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