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  • New Member - Thanks!

    Hi Everyone,

    New member here…Though I’ve been using this forum heavily as a reference while I bring my 95 Formula back to life. I stopped driving it about 4 years ago with only 56k miles on it because it was leaking oil, coolant, and tranny fluid like crazy, idling roughly, overheating, no A/C, clunking, rattling, squeaking, windows not going up, and smelling of coolant when the heat was turned on. The final straw was when I noticed oil and sludge in the coolant (at that point I assumed head gasket failure). Instead of fixing these problems, I just bought a new car and stopped driving the Formula with the intent of donating it to one of those charities that just comes and takes your car away. Four years passed and I never got around to donating the car. In the meantime, my kids have gotten older (14) and think the car’s awesome. So, I started doing some research online, found this forum, and have been using all of the info and advice to bring the car back to life.

    Jump ahead 2 months and I’m using the car as a daily driver, though there are still a number of things to repair. I took things one step at a time to see if this was really something I wanted to get into. Here’s what I’ve done so far:

    - New Battery
    - Started Car (fired right up after 4 years!)
    - Drove carefully to smog test station (Passed! – California)
    - Changed Oil
    - Flushed Cooling System (just water for now)
    - Diff Lube Change + Additive (got rid or the squealing and chatter in turns!)
    - Re-filled the A/C (works fine, seems to be holding the refrigerant)
    - New Water Pump and Thermostat

    That was just the first week and got it into drivable condition. Of course, I discovered after the fact that should have done the Opti and front seals while I was doing the pump, but at least I know the engine a little better now and it should go faster when I do them. Since replacing the water pump, I haven’t seen any more oil in the radiator (this used to be an obvious slick when you took off the radiator cap + some in the recovery tank). My theory on this is that oil leaked from the front of the intake manifold on to the junction of the water pump to the block (this is where my pump was leaking from, not the weep hole). When the engine would cool after running and create a vacuum drawing coolant from the recovery tank, I think that some of leaking oil would be drawn into the cooling system. I’ll keep an eye on it for now. Continuing with what I’ve done so far:

    - Replaced 3 Plugs (1,3,7) on the Passenger Side – Missing got worse.
    - Went Back and Removed Metal Heat Shields – Missing got better
    - Intake Manifold Leak Fix (this fixed most of the leaking oil at the back of the engine and some of the leaking oil at the front of the engine)
    - Replaced Oil Filler Neck (this fixed the remainder of the leaking oil at the back of the engine.
    - Transmission Service (fluid, filter, the pan was leaking, had the tranny mount replaced because I didn’t want to do it myself and it had cracks).

    All the leaks at the back of the engine/front of the transmission are gone at this point! Still to do:

    - Rest of the Plugs (Purchased NGK iridium)
    - Plug Wires – Purchased MSD 8.5’s (This weekend’s project. I’ll see what affect this has on the missing)
    - Opti + Seals – I already have the Opti & seals. I’m going to keep my fingers crossed and not do the timing cover/oil pan combo. Hope that does it for the leaks.
    - Heater Core
    - Window Motor
    - Brakes (…at some point. New rotors and pads)
    - Brake Master Cylinder (…at some point. Some minor leaking at the junction to the booster)
    - Figure Out What That Noise is (driver’s side rear brake/axle/suspension clatter when rolling, stops with application of brake, clunks if I grab the top of the tire and vigorously rack the car side-to-side)
    - Figure Out What That Vibration is (45-50mph – related to the rear wheel?, Tire balance? Tires sat in one position too long?...80mph – probably the driveshaft)
    - Creaks & Squeaks (especially when cold: rear bushings & other rubber do-dads? T-Top rattles, dash rattles, rattles with rattles…)
    - Paint R&R + TLC

    Anyway, I wanted to say thanks to the forum members at this point. This is really an invaluable resource for project like this and I probably wouldn't have done otherwise.

    Matt
    1995 Formula - Bone Stock, A/T

  • #2
    Welcome to the forum. It looks like you are well on your way of getting the bird back in top shape. Good luck on the rest of the project! Got any pics?

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    • #3
      Welcome Matt
      Keep going an get the bird back to full life.
      Blazer

      Comment


      • #4
        Pics? Let us see, let us see!!!
        LarryMow-93 V6 Firebird-No engine mods-Z06 Wheels, '98 Taillights,'98 Center Console-SLP fan switch-BMR STB, F/R Swaybars, PHB,LCA,Torque Arm, SFC, Bilsteins, Eibachs....www.cardomain.com/ride/2489691/1

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        • #5
          I'll post some pics tomorrow. I'm doing the plugs & wires now. Do I really have to drop the y-pipe on the driver's side to get that little shield off for routing #7 or is there some trick to getting it off?
          1995 Formula - Bone Stock, A/T

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          • #6
            Unless you feel like breaking in your arm to get another joint. haha

            The dropping the y-pipe & starter really is the best/fastest way.
            No F-Body right now

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            • #7
              Worked on&off today on the plugs & wires. I still have #2 & #8 plugs to change. I'm finding #2 to be a challenge, but I'm sure I'll work through it. I'm going to drop the starter for #8, but I don't think I can drop the y-pipe easily. I have a 1995 California smog version with 2 cats and the passenger side y-pipe (if it's still called that on this version) looks kinda complicated to remove. I still think I need to drop the driver's side y-pipe to route the #8 wire.

              On another note, my opti arrived today and I'm trying to decide if I want start that portion of the job or just get the plug and wires out of the way for now. Would sure be nice to stop the remaining leaks.

              I also looked at the clunking back wheel today. It may just be time to replace the rotor & pads. The noise sure sounds like a rattling pad. Is there such a thing as a loose axle? After removing the tire, caliper, and rotor, I could move the axle in and out about 1/16 of an inch (maybe a touch more). This may have caused the cluking I heard when I grabbed the top of the tire and shook the car side-to-side. There's no leaking from the seal and no grinding noise when I drive, so I don't suspect the bearing. The other side seemed to have a little less play. Is there a spec for the maxiumum amount of play an axle should have?
              1995 Formula - Bone Stock, A/T

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              • #8
                I hate working on exhaust systems. So I PB'd the flange bolts last night to let them soak awhile. Went to work on the drivers side flange this morning...got the first nut, got the second nut, got the...snap! The one closest to the head twisted off. After removing the pipe, the stub end is nicely protruding from the stock header. Any recommendations on removal? Easy out? More PB, heat, vice grips? Guess I'm not going to finish this weekend.
                1995 Formula - Bone Stock, A/T

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 95FormulaResto
                  I hate working on exhaust systems. So I PB'd the flange bolts last night to let them soak awhile. Went to work on the drivers side flange this morning...got the first nut, got the second nut, got the...snap! The one closest to the head twisted off. After removing the pipe, the stub end is nicely protruding from the stock header. Any recommendations on removal? Easy out? More PB, heat, vice grips? Guess I'm not going to finish this weekend.
                  PBlaster it, tap it a few times. PBlaster it again and use vise grips, the stud is toast anyway. It should come out pretty easy, then install a new stud.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks, Joe.
                    1995 Formula - Bone Stock, A/T

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                    • #11
                      So far, the PB and tapping hasn't worked. Any idea how the studs are installed at the factory? I see that the end of the stud has a hex on it for insertion. Do they use heat during the process? (I really don't want to remove the header. Knowing my luck, I'd break another bolt)
                      1995 Formula - Bone Stock, A/T

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                      • #12
                        It does screw into the manifold. You may have to heat it if PBlaster isn't working.

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                        • #13
                          Welcome aboard there Matt...enjoyed reading your write up. Way to breath in her new life. Congrats.

                          Christopher Teng

                          1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
                          Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
                          B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
                          Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
                          Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

                          Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

                          F-Body Dirty Dozen

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                          • #14
                            Of course, if I do remove the stock header on the driver's side, I'd be 1/4 of the way through a new header installation....That big round thing with attached pipe I took offwas one of the cats, right? Is their some short version of header that will go from the head to that cat? I'm in California, so I assume I would need to buy some kind of smog approved version of headers.
                            1995 Formula - Bone Stock, A/T

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                            • #15
                              SLP sells a 50 state smog legal header that is a direct replacement for manifolds and will bolt up to the factory Y pipe.

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