Rear Control Arms - Removing

[97LT1Z28]

The bushings on my stock rear control arms are squeaking badly and I'm thinking of replacing either the whole unit or just the bushings.

Is this easy to do?

[Craig 94 TA GT]

They are easy to remove. The trickiest part is that they should be torqued down when the car is not jacked...so access is a bit tough, unless you have a lift.

I would go with the Spohn LCAs, rather than putting time into the mediocore stockers. They're well worth it http://spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1293 and should come with a set of instructions.
I'm not sure if you'll need the adjustable ones, or if you can use stock length since you're lowered?

[Injuneer]

Why do the LCA bolts have to be torqued with the car not jacked? I've done numerous sets with the car on jackstands, and I've seen Steve Spohn install them with the car on stands.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I thought the Spohn instructions said that
I'm probably wrong, but I could have sworn I read that. I'll try to find the original guide just for my sanity sake.



EDIT: I found them. Maybe I misunderstood, but #5 implies I have to lower it down

INSTRUCTIONS

5.*** Lower vehicle to regular ride height and tighten all bolts. Control arm bolts/nuts can be torque to 72 ft/lbs. dry or 55 ft/lbs. lubed.

I would definitely love to not lower it though....very much a PITA to tighten when not jacked.

I don't know if I can list all steps or copy/paste them here since the document is owned by Spohn and intended for those who purchase the Spohn LCAs

[ConElite]

Yeah I never hear anyhing about that one either Fred. We installed some in my buddies 93 Z no Problem. I just bought the UMI single sided sphyrical rod end type. A little cheaper than the Spohn's.

These are The ones i just bought.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Well just for the record, I'm not arguing that we should do this...just stating why I originally thought this was necessary. But if Fred has done it with the car jacked, and even saw Spohn himself do this, then I of course don't see the need to lower the car and tighten.

[ConElite]

Well just for the record, I'm not arguing that we should do this...just stating why I originally thought this was necessary. But if Fred has done it with the car jacked, and even saw Spohn himself do this, then I of course don't see the need to lower the car and tighten.

Dont worry no offense taken. No need to argue.

[Injuneer]

Keep in mind.... when you have the chassis on jackstands, with the stands under the subframes, you are going to want to support the rear axle with a floor jack, just so you can control the spacing of the axle to the subframe, to allow you to get the bolts in both ends of the arm. The axle won't be hanging free.

I think UMI keeps the prices down by copying the designs from BMR and Spohn. You decide if its ethical.

[97LT1Z28]

Thanks everyone - great answers!

I like the fact that the aftermarket LCA's have lube points.

I appreciate everyone's help on this one.

[Shaggs2Dope]

ok i know this is an old post but the solution to the car needs to be down to torq the bolts issue is easy.. come on people just jack the car up and put blocks under the tires and lower, now the full weight is down but the car is still up enough to tighten the bolts.. Think outside the box!

[ConElite]

ok i know this is an old post but the solution to the car needs to be down to torq the bolts issue is easy.. come on people just jack the car up and put blocks under the tires and lower, now the full weight is down but the car is still up enough to tighten the bolts.. Think outside the box!

Yeah, But the way Fred explained is 100 times safer. Or you can use some ramps.

[MunsonGTA]

i went with the new J&M LCA's with new polyball technology. you guys should check them out.

http://www.camaroz28.com/articles/jmbushing/
http://www.hotpart.com

[ConElite]

i went with the new J&M LCA's with new polyball technology. you guys should check them out.

Nice. Those should work great and prevent so much Cabine noise. I noticed the difference with my Solid ones. I dont mind it at all consider Summer is coming and the T-tops are coming off at least every weekend. lol.
Got to love So. Cal.

[raroZ28]

Well just for the record, I'm not arguing that we should do this...just stating why I originally thought this was necessary. But if Fred has done it with the car jacked, and even saw Spohn himself do this, then I of course don't see the need to lower the car and tighten.

Craig is right, I read the same thing. It says something about preload. Lower the car to preload the bushings, then torque. So I did it, and it wasn't that much of a big deal, not much harder to do with the car down as it would have been if it were jacked up. Probably not a big deal, just a minor technicality, but it does say that.

[Injuneer]

What are you "preloading"? The subframe/bracket and the axle/bracket clamp down on the metal sleeve that goes through the bushing (or the rod end). There is virtually no "play" in that sleeve, since the ID is selected to match the bolt diameter. As long as the bolt through the subframe end is parallel to the bolt through the axle end, there shouldn't be any load on the poly bushings at all. And rod-ends could care less if there is any preload, because they can pivot to accomodate the bolts being out of parallel.