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Vanishing Bird Emblems

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  • Vanishing Bird Emblems

    This isn’t a very technical post but I see this on many 4th-gen Birds, including my own. The red “Firebird” logo between the taillights and the bird below started to fade and now are extinct. I know I can buy a whole new piece from GM probably for $150 and have it replaced…

    So does anyone know from experience a good source for an alternative such as a vinyl overlay that will look like the stock emblems on the back? I am new to the forum so maybe this is weird… but I’m sure many have had the same problem. Thanks, all.
    Matt



    1998 Firebird 5-speed
    2005 Pontiac Sunfire 4-door 5-speed

  • #2
    I was thinking the same thing. Mine is all faded off.
    Eddie
    2000 M6 Trans Am
    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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    • #3
      You can remove whats left, possibly using very fine sandpaper (1000-grit or finer) and some plastic polish. Then get a replacement vinyl decal from Brent Franker:

      http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/vinyl/vinyl.htm

      Brent's vinyl is very high quality, for very fair prices. He has a variety of designs and colors, including some that match the originals.

      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        The center section of my light faded as well. I sanded it down, painted it, and put on a vinyl replacement decal....and I gotta say, it looks sweet. I bought my decal on ebay for something like 10 bux....but if Brents decals are anything like his replacement headlight gears, I would highly recommend them.
        LarryMow-93 V6 Firebird-No engine mods-Z06 Wheels, '98 Taillights,'98 Center Console-SLP fan switch-BMR STB, F/R Swaybars, PHB,LCA,Torque Arm, SFC, Bilsteins, Eibachs....www.cardomain.com/ride/2489691/1

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        • #5
          I've reworked many of these over the last few years, & typically buy/sell a couple dozen a year. I haven't done any within the last couple months as they are getting harder to buy 'cheap'. If I can't buy'em cheap, it's not worth reworking.

          1) It's always easiest to do this when removed from the car. I screw them down to an old wooden workbench using simple short drywall screws & fender washers. I have simply used duct tape & taped it down to my countertop in the garage also.

          2) Use nail polish remover to remove the leftover pink ink. Be careful if you do this on the car, as you don't want this running down the rest of the car. Also make sure you do not get it anywhere else on the plate except the exposed 'shiny' surface area. If you get it on the area up top where the hatch lid seals, it will stain it.

          3) Keeping it wet, I use a small 1/4 sheet sander & start with 600grit wet-sandpaper. When all the 'history markings' of the leftover emblem is gone, I move to 1500 with the machine. I usually finish with 1500 or 2000grit by hand.

          4) If you have some type of buffer or polishing machine, this last step will go much easier. I start with Zaino's glass polish, then change pads & go to the Zaino Plastic polish. I have also used the Meguiar' PlastX which will produce fine results. Just keep ploishing until you reach the desired finish. If you polish it & still some scratches leftover, simply 'spot' wet-sand again & polish again.

          5) Top it off with your typical wax/polish that you use on your car. Be sure to always wet the taillights & center section when cleaning them, as any dirt/dust pushed around with a towel/cloth will produce small 'scratches' over time.

          There are a couple webpages available that basically tell ya the same thing. Many people do this with it still mounted on the car if they're doing it for themselves.
          Good Luck!
          1) 2001 Pontiac Trans Am 10th Anniversary Firehawk
          2) 2005 Pontiac Bonneville GXP
          3) 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTII
          4) 1986 Pontiac Fiero GT
          5) 1996 Chevrolet Blazer
          6) 1993 Harley-Davidson FXSTS Softail Springer

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          • #6
            Anothe "plus" for the Formula..... no decals on the center panel.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              Mine was all faded when I bought the T/A in '99. I had purchased a new center section then, and it's looked like new for 8 years. I usually wax mine and that seemed to help. But don't know for sure if that's the case. So for those that have already faded ones, would it help if you put the decal on, then waxed it to protect the coloring from UV rays? Just a thought.
              94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for all your comments and advice. I'll definitely look into your recommendations. I don't think that sanding is necessary in my case. The Bird isn't faded; its gone. Actually looks kind of sleek since it's all black there now and goes well with the glossy black paint. But that's not the point... the Bird needs to be displayed proudly.
                Matt



                1998 Firebird 5-speed
                2005 Pontiac Sunfire 4-door 5-speed

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
                  Mine was all faded when I bought the T/A in '99. I had purchased a new center section then, and it's looked like new for 8 years. I usually wax mine and that seemed to help. But don't know for sure if that's the case. So for those that have already faded ones, would it help if you put the decal on, then waxed it to protect the coloring from UV rays? Just a thought.
                  I should also mention...

                  I definetly think it's the UV rays too. And they are bad on red especially. For my primary wax I use only Eagle One WET. Best stuff ever, but definetly not for plastic. Maybe a good consistent coat of Wax-as-u-dry. That'll go on anything.

                  PontiacFan, thanks the advice also... AWESOME.
                  Matt



                  1998 Firebird 5-speed
                  2005 Pontiac Sunfire 4-door 5-speed

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hard to believe anyone is still using "wax" on their prized automobiles. Do yourself a favor and try a "search" on the forums for keyword "Zaino".
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Or you can just buff it all off and leave the section black...

                      I saw it on a Blackbird and it's sinister...so I did it too. I had the overlay from bfranker...it's quality.

                      Christopher Teng

                      1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
                      Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
                      B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
                      Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
                      Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

                      Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

                      F-Body Dirty Dozen

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Christopherrr
                        Or you can just buff it all off and leave the section black...
                        Then it would be just like the factory Formula rear panel.
                        Fred

                        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          mine faded too, and i sanded it down, and bought a vinyl overlay off ebay for $11 and put it on, looks alot better! and i also put fill-ins on the car were it says PONTIAC, i have a red car, so i got black fill-ins, and they look great! bought them off ebay too!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Injuneer
                            ... get a replacement vinyl decal from Brent Franker:

                            http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/vinyl/vinyl.htm

                            Brent's vinyl is very high quality, for very fair prices.
                            +1 for Brent's merchandise
                            A+ quality and price
                            My DD
                            2015 Lexus GS350 FSport

                            My toy

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