hey guys, i want your opinions.. i want to be able to pull a wheel off the ground when i go to the strip! i am putting a 4.10 gear in my car sometime this week, hopin it would have gone in sooner but, oh well. and i got a cold air, shift kit, slicks(not yet, but will have some) and a litttle chip. now, with all that stuff put on, and assuming that i will hook off the line, do you think i will be able to pull one off the ground,mabe jump over pepsi cans! but do you think its possible she will do it????? thanks guys!!
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Pullin a wheel off the ground??????
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Originally posted by Dave VinceAdd a 3500 stall converter and it would be a good bet with a good hook.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Originally posted by 88bird5spdand plan on replacing that 10 bolt soon witht he slicks. they dont like it when tires hookEddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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QFT -Originally posted by 88bird5spdand plan on replacing that 10 bolt soon with the slicks. they don't like it when tires hook
Blew my 10-bolt 100 miles from home. Shredded the spider gears. That was when I was at stock hp. BFG Comp TA DR's on a 10-bolt - nuff said
usually the ET's I've seen F-bodies start lifting the wheels were in the 11's @ minimum in the 1/4.Rhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*
2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
pics and info
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Originally posted by Rhode Island Redusually the ET's I've seen F-bodies start lifting the wheels were in the 11's @ minimum in the 1/4.pulled the wheels off the ground. The only one that was able to do so what our main car. It was a 95 Z28 with a 383 stroker, blown, pushing 700+hp. It was running low 9's. It was doing 100 foot wheel stands (until the wheelie bars).
Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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I've run 11.1@128MPH without pulling a wheel. I've done 5K clutch dumps without pulling a wheel. It all in the suspension. Here's a 1,350HP 4th Gen, running sub 8.5-second 1/4's, over 160MPH and 1.30 60-fts, and this is as far as the wheels came off the ground AFTER he got the suspension set up right (= set up by Steve Spohn):
Before he got the suspension under control, it would do this all the time, with "only" 1,125HP:
Always looking for a way to post those pictures.... one more timeFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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hahahahha!!! i gotcha, well i thought that mabe she would come close. the mustags steal all the attention when they just over a pepsi can at the strip! i hate it! so, i got to have about 1200HP, and realy beafy rear end, $3000 in suspention, and a cage. oh, and 15in wide slicks. ok, im gona start ordering parts!!!!!!!!!1
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No... you dont' need 1,200HP. The NHRA "Stock" class cars routinely put the rear bumper on the track with a "stock" engine. Sure, its far from stock, but if you go by the MPH, they aren't making huge HP. They are very light weight, very light in the front end. Again, for a low HP car, pulling the front wheels seems to produce some good ET's, better than you might expect with the HP levels. But again, its all in the suspension. When we were trying to improve the perfomance of the 30th SS convertible, we talked to the NHRA Stock class racers, and found out they could invest $25-30K in the suspension alone on a top performing car.
Get the weight off the front end - move the batteries, light-weight racing wheels with skinnies. Unhook the front sway bar. Put some loose shocks in the front. Upgrade the rear suspension to maximize front end lift... strong torque arm, firmer poly bushings, LCA relocation brackets. And of course enough traction and a strong enough rear. With a high stall converter, and steep gears the left front will come off the ground. As HP increases, this will become a problem, since the body will be starting to twist, and you won't be going down the track straight. Then its time for an airbag in the right rear spring, or a strong rear sway bar.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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