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  • I think I just blew up my engine...

    Hey everyone,
    Tell me what you think. The car is a 91 RS with a 305TBI & 156,XXX miles. I usually drive the car pretty hard. However, this morning I was just crusing around. I was running really low on gas, looking for a gas station. While stopped at a red light, the car died on me. I had a really hard time starting it up again. Once I got it started back up the engine was making a loud metal to metal knocking sound. A couple blocks later I found a gas station and filled her up. However the sound hasnt gone away. At idle, you can hear the sound but its not very loud. As RPM's increase, the sound gets faster & louder. The car has no balls at all. What did I break? Time for a new motor?
    No F-Body right now

  • #2
    That could be a rod knocking or the crankshaft.

    My car did the same thing at 132K so I had to get the motor replaced.

    With a new motor, I can think about upgrades like nitrous or supercharging.

    The long block I had installed was $1900 total with labor.

    It was worth it because gas prices are high but I don't have a payment on the car. I still come out way ahead.
    Darrin C
    '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
    07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

    Comment


    • #3
      could also be as simple as a universal joint breaking. any SES codes?
      2000 Z-28 Convertible, neutral leather interior and neutral top, hotchkis STB, SLP Bowtie Grill, WhisperLid, K&N, cold air induction

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      • #4
        Mark, has that got a mechanical fuel pump or electric?

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        • #5
          91 305's have the electric pump in the tank............
          Darrin C
          '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
          07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Mark B
            the engine was making a loud metal to metal knocking sound. A couple blocks later I found a gas station and filled her up. However the sound hasnt gone away. At idle, you can hear the sound but its not very loud. As RPM's increase, the sound gets faster & louder. The car has no balls at all. What did I break? Time for a new motor?
            A knock that increases with rpm is definately in the rotating assembly. Most likely rod bearings.

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            • #7
              Joe what happend to the WS6?

              not to hijack this thread

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Choppers
                Joe what happend to the WS6?

                not to hijack this thread
                Go to the off-topic forum and read of its destruction.... and Joe's good fortune at still being with us.

                http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19171
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                • #9
                  Now the engine seems frozen. I had it idling yesterday while trying to find out where the knock was coming from. And the engine died again. This time I cant get it restarted. The starter sounds likes its got the power, but the engine wont turn. Heres the new plan...

                  -Remove starter & inspect flywheel
                  -Remove valve covers to see if any of the rockers/valvetrain is screwed up
                  -Remove all spark plugs.

                  I will try to turn the engine over by hand after each step. If the engine still wont turn over after removing the items below, what should my next course of action be? Remove the heads? Is it possible the clutch/trans is causing my problems? Any way to check without removing the gear box?
                  No F-Body right now

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                  • #10
                    Well I kept trying to start it over & over and eventually, the engine turned over & started up. In addition to the knocking sound I had before, it sounds like there is something floping around inside the engine as well. I drained the oil & didnt see any metal shavings. I took the valve covers off & had someone crank over the engine while I watched the rockers. The rockers seem to be moving correctly. I didnt remove the intake manifold. Any other checks I can do before spending alot of $$$ on a new engine?
                    No F-Body right now

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      A low mile used LT1 would bolt directly into your car. I bet you could find a good one for cheap, fixing your car and significantly increasing the performance in the progress.
                      Tracy
                      2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                      1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                      Current Mods:
                      SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        if you keep playin and turning it over you're going to make more damage. Drop the oil pan so you can look at the crank. I know you've drained the oil, but take a hanger, wrap a napkin on it, stick it in the pan and move it around, see if there are any shavings that way. I wouldn't run it anymore. You most likely spun a rod bearing. Motor's going to have to come out. I would just pull it.

                        You don't want to keep running it, you could damage the crank and rods beyond repair. if it's just a rod bearing, it's fairly cheap and easy to fix. Grind the crank, get new bearings, have the block hot tanked and honed, and put it back together.
                        97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                        01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                        • #13
                          1, pull the pan and check it out if that doesn't tell you, then pull the heads and try to figure out what's happening. The more you run it with something knocking the more damage your doing.
                          2005 GTO (mine) K&N CAI and Magnaflow exhaust, drilled and slotted rotors, and other minor mods.
                          1994 Formula (mine) SOLD 6-23-08 Still miss it
                          2002 V6 Firebird (wifes)
                          2013 GMC Sierra (mine)
                          2011 Cadillac CTS4 (wifes)

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                          • #14
                            oh yeah, this is what happened to me 2 years ago when I was curious to see where a knock was coming from, this happened just turning it over. Also blew the valve cover in half, and shot the dipstick down the street.
                            97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                            01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Or.....if you're not planning on doing the motor yourself, save yourself the labor of taking it all apart. Just let your fingers do the walkin' and start shoping in the Yellow Pages under "Auto Engine Replacement" and call to find out how a remanufactured long block would be - installed.

                              Mine was $1900 installed but yours should be a lot less expensive . . .
                              Darrin C
                              '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
                              07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

                              Comment

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