Header install

[93/96 f-body]

I'm in the process of installing pacesetter Lt headers on my 93 z28. I started saturday and made out well. I removed the y-pipe, starter, dipstick tube, passenger side manifold, plugs etc. Tonight i picked back up on the drivers side removing the steering shaft, plugs and three of the manifold bolts. The problem is the car has 100,000 on the ticker and the last three bolts were tight. I've been soaking them with pb blaster the best i can. The rear #7 bolt started out and broke. The #5 cylinder bolts started but one gets tight and the other screeches. I worked the one back and forth and reoiled it. I don't have a torch and am afraid to break anymore. I have a heat gun which i used to heat up the right a.i.r hook up and it broke loose. If the heat gun isn't enought what should i do next? And how should i go about removing the broken bolt? I don't now at this point if it's long enough to remove with an extractor. I have a 90 degree drill to drill it out if i even have enough room. What size tap will i need to rechase the threads. My 96ss with low miles and short tubes was cake compaired to this. But once i get done and hear it run again it will be well worth it! Thanks for any input.

[ConElite]

I'm in the process of installing pacesetter Lt headers on my 93 z28. I started saturday and made out well. I removed the y-pipe, starter, dipstick tube, passenger side manifold, plugs etc. Tonight i picked back up on the drivers side removing the steering shaft, plugs and three of the manifold bolts. The problem is the car has 100,000 on the ticker and the last three bolts were tight. I've been soaking them with pb blaster the best i can. The rear #7 bolt started out and broke. The #5 cylinder bolts started but one gets tight and the other screeches. I worked the one back and forth and reoiled it. I don't have a torch and am afraid to break anymore. I have a heat gun which i used to heat up the right a.i.r hook up and it broke loose. If the heat gun isn't enought what should i do next? And how should i go about removing the broken bolt? I don't now at this point if it's long enough to remove with an extractor. I have a 90 degree drill to drill it out if i even have enough room. What size tap will i need to rechase the threads. My 96ss with low miles and short tubes was cake compaired to this. But once i get done and hear it run again it will be well worth it! Thanks for any input.

Thats your best bet. Used a bolt extreactor. I know we have a set that If the head of the bolt simply broke off, you slid this Socket looking thing over and it grips the Bolt from the outside, no Drilling required. Those things have saved me many many times. Im not exactly sure what its called. Ill get back to you when I get out of work.

[93/96 f-body]

Yeah i know what your talking about. Its called a stud remover. Napa had one on the kt tools rack. About 35.00 and some change. I got most of what i need so i'll see how things go tomorrow. Wish me luck.

[93/96 f-body]

Well the stud broke off flush. But i got lucky because the stock manifold uses the hole farthest from the exhaust port. And the header uses the inner hole. But i did manage to snap the other stud on the same port. But looks like it has more access. I have the passenger side completed. So if it dosen't take to long to drill out and tap i should be complete late tonight or mid day tomorrow.

[93/96 f-body]

Finished the install in the early am hours! Between 1:30 and 2:00 am. The garage is a complete mess. Since it was late i didn't get to hook the battery up and start it. I was surprised/happy with the fit and clearence of the headers. Clears the k-member by 3/4 to a 1/2". The oil filter is not going to be as easy to remove and the number 7 plug hole is a pain to get started due to had clearence. Even the off road y-pipe was no lower than the collector tube. Can't wait to hear it run.

[ConElite]

Can't wait to header it run.

HE HAS "HEADER" ON THE MIND. lol

[93/96 f-body]

Sorry it was a late night!