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Time for a rebuild?

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  • Time for a rebuild?

    This might sound silly, but I'm torn between replacing the heads only (AI 185 cc heads) vs rebuilding the motor to a 355 with a hotter but emissions legal package. I originally planned on just replacing the heads to fix a broken header bolt. AI has been backed up on my order for a while, so this is why I'm getting second thoughts on telling them to ship the heads and cam, rather than just the heads. Of course, with both heads and cam, I'm going to need to freshen up the bottom end.

    So my thoughts are:
    Against the rebuild:
    - I don't "really" need a rebuild at the moment, with the exception of extra power.
    - The oil pressure shows 18-20 PSI at hot idle, ~40 at cold idle...which seems ok to me. I never take it past 4k anymore though, so I don't know high RPM WOT oil pressure.
    - It burns no oil and still runs fairly strong.
    - It has a new timing set
    - Compression check (only on drivers side bank) showed about 200-220 psi all around.

    However thoughts for the rebuild are
    - it slightly leaks oil in 2 places: the rear main (not the intake leak), and oil pan gasket, which makes a mess on the floor and under the motor/tranny.
    - I'm going to replace the heads regardless of the rebuild anyway.
    - BLMs are way split...probably due to the header leak, but they've always been split, even when I thought there wasn't a leak. So I can't be 100% sure that the pure cause is the header leak.
    - It also has nearly 125k miles, and I'm averaging 10-12k/year. I know that the LT1s can last a lot longer than that, but if I can build up a budget street/strip 355 that will last just as long, the extra hp will be nice (maybe 350-400 RWHP, or whatever's the most power you can get from a 355 emissions legal car?).

    Money shouldn't be too much of an issue because this probably won't be done until later this year or even next year.

    I already have many supporting parts too...Moser 9", full exhaust/CAI, 1.6 RRs, etc.

    What do you guys think: there is nothing wrong with the bottom end, so just replace the heads? Or rebuild and get the extra hp?

    Thanks in advance for your advice.
    94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

  • #2
    If you decide to go with the rebuild ou might as wwell go with a 383 setup. it won't be much more money and way worth it.
    '95 T/A Conv., Green, Tan Top
    '00 T/A Silver
    '86 Chevy RCSB 4WD (LS1 to go in)

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    • #3
      If it's got over 140-150K on it, and you plan on keeping it, then do the rebuild. - then you can do what ever you want as far as the motor or external bolt-on upgrades as well.
      Darrin C
      '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
      07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

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      • #4
        Thanks guys. It currently has ~125k, and if I do a rebuild, it will probably have close to 135k. I would really hate it if I were to spend all that time to replace the heads, then end up with a problem in the bottom end, due to normal wear and tear. But, at the current moment, it doesn't show any typical "signs" of quitting anytime soon.

        And after speaking with AI, they recommend that a street/strip setup be a 355, rather than a 383. I don't recall the exact reasoning, but it was something about keeping better streetability and/or RPM range. Maybe too much low end torque for a street tire car?
        94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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        • #5
          Well, I called Advanced Induction and requested to change the package to the 200 CC heads, with an emissions cam. Then I'm going to either re-bearing the crank and cam, or end up doing a nice 355. I guess it depends on what the shop will recommend. Hopefully it will squeeze around 400 RWHP with this setup, while the emissions cam keeps the streetability.
          94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
            Well, I called Advanced Induction and requested to change the package to the 200 CC heads, with an emissions cam. Then I'm going to either re-bearing the crank and cam, or end up doing a nice 355. I guess it depends on what the shop will recommend. Hopefully it will squeeze around 400 RWHP with this setup, while the emissions cam keeps the streetability.


            I myself got the 190cc set up with a torquey custom cam from Ai. I didnt care about emissions. Ron is a good guy if that is whom you spoke to. He has helped me make up my mind a lot during my build, which yet has to be completed! but anywho, Later, I decided to go with the 383 stroker motor. Golen motors has a beasty bottom end if you want to buy a whole new block..which i reccommend just for the reason a decent rebuild kit for the 383 cost the same as Golen's motor. It is also steal shot strengthend and forged everything. Cant wait to get her running again! Will keep this forum up to date. Later

            Jeff
            -Jeff

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