My LS1 Brake swap

[sneitzel]

OK,

So I'm in the process of doing the LS1 brake swap on my 97.
Thanks the the information in THIS LINK I am well on my way.

I just received the parts kit from Tenessee Auto but I have a few questions.

First,
Can someone tell me what this part is called? (Rattle clip???)



I am missing one from the kit (got 3 and it looks like I need 4) and I was just wondering if they're available at the parts store or do I need to bug the guys at TN Auto to send me one.

Also, does someone have a pic of the brake line bracket? I don't think I received those either but wanted to make sure.

Finally, the knuckles have the usual surface rust on them. I wanted to clean them up and paint them before I do the swap. I don't have access to a sandblaster so I was wondering what's the best way to clean off the rust? I'm thinking a wire brush and some elbow grease but I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks everyone.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Yes they are! Autozone sells them as a kit and I think it is about $10. I had to get some for mine too. brake rattle clips or something like that

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I didn't get the brake line brackets either. You can drill out the bracket so the LS1 hoses will fit or get the Earls brake line kit.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Home depot sells wire wheels like this. You chuck them up in a drill and "go to town" on the rust.

I can't find them online but they sell a kit with 4 different wheels in it. Some are small for getting in tight corners.

[ConElite]

If you have access to an air compressor and die Grinder, your going to have one hell of an easier time. I love my die grinders. They are so useful. No garage should be without. I have 3 differnt ones. A straight one, 90 degree and a 45.

[sneitzel]

I have a die grinder but my compressor is a little wimpy and doesn't run it too well. Should help out though.

Thanks for the ideas.

[ConElite]

any time. Yeah we have a old compressor but its pretty big. Its at least a 60 gallon. So it runs everything pretty nice. Good luck

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Hey sneitzel , I just thought of something. Did you get a spare tire off of an LS1? The spare tire in the lt1 cars will not fit over the brake rotors of a LS1 front or back.

[sneitzel]

Hey sneitzel , I just thought of something. Did you get a spare tire off of an LS1? The spare tire in the lt1 cars will not fit over the brake rotors of a LS1 front or back.

No. I didn't even know that was an issue. Thanks for the heads up. I'll look around locally for one but in the meantime I guess if I have a flat on the front I'll have to do a double switch.

I got all the parts cleaned up and painted. I used the wire wheel suggested in my drill and a smaller one in the dremmel to get the tight places. Worked great. I decided to take the calipers to AZ and swap them for rebuilt ones just to be safe. The rest of the parts (rotors, pads, ss lines) should be here by the end of the week so I'll tackle the actual install next weekend.

I'll take and post pics as well.

Again, thanks to everyone for their input and advice.

[sneitzel]

Update:
Everything has finally arrived and I'm going to tackle the job this weekend.

A couple of questions:

The Russell SS line kit I bought has the 4 caliper lines and also has the line going to the pumpkin and the line for the TC. Is there a special procedure or anything different I have to do to make sure the air is bled from those lines?

I also got 2 sets of Russell Speed Bleeders. Anyone used these and what do you think of them?

I understand I will need an alignment after the swap. How bad is it going to be off? Do I need to make an appointment sat afternoon somewhere or is it something where I could drive it a day or two and get it done sometime during next week?

Any other last minute tips or tricks?

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Update:
Everything has finally arrived and I'm going to tackle the job this weekend.

A couple of questions:

The Russell SS line kit I bought has the 4 caliper lines and also has the line going to the pumpkin and the line for the TC. Is there a special procedure or anything different I have to do to make sure the air is bled from those lines?

I also got 2 sets of Russell Speed Bleeders. Anyone used these and what do you think of them?

I understand I will need an alignment after the swap. How bad is it going to be off? Do I need to make an appointment sat afternoon somewhere or is it something where I could drive it a day or two and get it done sometime during next week?

Any other last minute tips or tricks?

No.
Never used them.
I wouldn't drive it. I drove there on a wet day and it was a real adventure. It was bad toed out.
What do you plan to use to seperate the ball joints and tie rod ends?

[sneitzel]

Following your suggestion in the previous thread I'm going to get a small puller (and probably a pickle fork as well) from AZ.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Don't bother with the pickle fort. It will tear the boot. Then you will be replacing that. The gear puller I used was borderline too big. The top ball joint is hard to get to with the gear puller because of the bend in the knuckle. It needs a small puller.

The swap really doesn't take that long. String the alignment before you drive it to the alignment shop.

[sneitzel]

String the alignment before you drive it to the alignment shop.

Explain please???

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Stringing the Car
After you get the front ride height and camber set, adjust the toe-in. Easiest way is to "string" the car, ala NASCAR. Use any four convenient objects to securely hold two strings that run beside the car, at about wheel center height and an inch or two from them, and extending a foot or more beyond the ends of the car. Measure the distance between the strings in front of and behind the car, and make these distances identical. Make the distances between each rear wheel center and its string identical. Make the distance between each front wheel center and its string identical. Check to make sure the distance between the strings is identical in front of and behind the car. Warning! The track is rarely the same front and rear, so don't use just the measurements from the wheel centers to set your string!
from http://www.928oc.org/tip/tip465.htm