I heard that some people would remove the front sway bar when they would go to the Drag Strip in order to get like better weight transfer. Would this be a good idea or not. Removing it for the day. Im planning on running tomorrow Night.
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you don't really have to remove the swaybar, just disconnect the end links. i've heard of many people doing it and having better 60 ft times. i've personally been looking for a set of quick disconnect end links for my GTA, haven't found any yet.87 GTA: it's winter time, all tore apart
ConElite: "Im 22, have had my TA since I was 21."
"I wont lie, I have a heavy foot, but at the same time I know when its the safest to ring out a gear or 2."
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Originally posted by brothapigI'm not questioning, just wondering.
How does removing the front sway bar help with weight transfer? I'm assuming you mean weight transfer to the rear of the car.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Removing the front sway bar on a street driven car is not a good idea. It will allow excessive body roll in cornering and may cause the car to plow in corners or oversteer. Its there for a reason. Removing it completely produces a car that corners poorly. I've seen a large number of people counter with "I removed mine and the handling didn't change at all". Anyone that says that has absolutley no clue about handling and cornering.....
When you launch, you want the front end to come up, raising the center of gravity. As the front end comes up, the weight it was supporting is now supported by the rear wheels. Raising the center of gravity increases the moment lifting the front end. On the launch, the left front wants to come up first, and the right rear will want to squat.... a reaction to the torque at the driveshaft. With a sway bar, when the left front wants to rise, the sway bar, because is is connected to both sides of the suspension, prevents the left side from rising faster than the right side. Less rise on the front end = less total weight transfer to the rear.
You reach a point where the lift on the front left will be excessive, and the whole chassis will twist at a wild angle - there was a picture on the 'net of Joe Overton's 9-second all-motor Trans Am displaying this sort of destructive twist. At that point, a VERY stiff rear sway bar becomes essential, to allow the chassis to be preloaded to stay level on launch and prevent body roll.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by InjuneerRemoving the front sway bar on a street driven car is not a good idea. It will allow excessive body roll in cornering and may cause the car to plow in corners or oversteer. Its there for a reason. Removing it completely produces a car that corners poorly. I've seen a large number of people counter with "I removed mine and the handling didn't change at all". Anyone that says that has absolutley no clue about handling and cornering.....
When you launch, you want the front end to come up, raising the center of gravity. As the front end comes up, the weight it was supporting is now supported by the rear wheels. Raising the center of gravity increases the moment lifting the front end. On the launch, the left front wants to come up first, and the right rear will want to squat.... a reaction to the torque at the driveshaft. With a sway bar, when the left front wants to rise, the sway bar, because is is connected to both sides of the suspension, prevents the left side from rising faster than the right side. Less rise on the front end = less total weight transfer to the rear.
You reach a point where the lift on the front left will be excessive, and the whole chassis will twist at a wild angle - there was a picture on the 'net of Joe Overton's 9-second all-motor Trans Am displaying this sort of destructive twist. At that point, a VERY stiff rear sway bar becomes essential, to allow the chassis to be preloaded to stay level on launch and prevent body roll.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Great for drag racing. Just pointing out that removing it completely may not be a good idea, since its a lot of work to drop it, and you may not get around to putting it back on. At the track, undo the end-link on one side. You will get the weight transfer benefits, just not the 20# weight reduction. Or pull it off completely, but don't take any hard turns on the way home.
A buddy of mine took the front sway bar off his 30th SS convertible, because he was trying to get it into the 9's. I didn't realize he had taken it completely until I saw him in the shop poking under the car on a lift. The body was rolling so badly in a hard corners that the edge of the inner fender liner had sliced almost all the way through the sidewall of one of his 315/35 Comp T/A tires.
I don't have a front sway bar, but I have the Spohn "drag race" rear bar that will hold the car level. But even with that, the car may stay level on corners, but it doesn't handle the way it used to.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Thanks Alot Fred. Yeah Im going to remove it. Yeah Ill take it very easy on the way to and from the track. As soon as I get home Im putting that thing back on. Even if I have to be under that dang car at 11pm. I believe you that the car will handle like crap. Plus I dont think Stock HP + SBC will not twist the body.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Originally posted by InjuneerAt the track, undo the end-link on one side. You will get the weight transfer benefits, just not the 20# weight reduction. Or pull it off completely, but don't take any hard turns on the way home.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
Comment
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The sway bar won't go anywhere if you only remove the end link on one side. The link on the other side will hold it level. The stock bolt will be very likely to break when you try and take it loose. They start to rust the minute the car leaves the factory. Get an Energy Suspension end link, with the poly bushings and the correct length sleeve to put on the side you plan to onbolt frequently.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by InjuneerThe sway bar won't go anywhere if you only remove the end link on one side. The link on the other side will hold it level. The stock bolt will be very likely to break when you try and take it loose. They start to rust the minute the car leaves the factory. Get an Energy Suspension end link, with the poly bushings and the correct length sleeve to put on the side you plan to onbolt frequently.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
Comment
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