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Remove Front SB for the Track?

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  • Remove Front SB for the Track?

    I heard that some people would remove the front sway bar when they would go to the Drag Strip in order to get like better weight transfer. Would this be a good idea or not. Removing it for the day. Im planning on running tomorrow Night.
    Eddie
    2000 M6 Trans Am
    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

  • #2
    you don't really have to remove the swaybar, just disconnect the end links. i've heard of many people doing it and having better 60 ft times. i've personally been looking for a set of quick disconnect end links for my GTA, haven't found any yet.
    87 GTA: it's winter time, all tore apart

    ConElite: "Im 22, have had my TA since I was 21."

    "I wont lie, I have a heavy foot, but at the same time I know when its the safest to ring out a gear or 2."

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    • #3
      Well if im going to disconnect the end link im removing the sway bar. Thats like 20 lb off the nose. (Not like its much)
      Eddie
      2000 M6 Trans Am
      Tune+exhaust=344WHP

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm not questioning, just wondering.

        How does removing the front sway bar help with weight transfer? I'm assuming you mean weight transfer to the rear of the car.
        '96 Firebird Formula, LT1, stock, automatic

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        • #5
          Originally posted by brothapig
          I'm not questioning, just wondering.

          How does removing the front sway bar help with weight transfer? I'm assuming you mean weight transfer to the rear of the car.
          I know that when I was rolling with Inland Empire F-bodys down here in So-Cal, a couple of the guys right when they got they got they're cars, they tossed the SB in the trash (We only did Drag, no AutoX). From what I remember (it was 6 years ago) they claimed that it would help the car transfer more weight to the rear and give you better launch. I dont know if its true but I know 98% of the guys in the club were under 12.50 in the 1/4. (27 cars=23 LS1's+4 LT1's)
          Eddie
          2000 M6 Trans Am
          Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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          • #6
            Removing the front sway bar on a street driven car is not a good idea. It will allow excessive body roll in cornering and may cause the car to plow in corners or oversteer. Its there for a reason. Removing it completely produces a car that corners poorly. I've seen a large number of people counter with "I removed mine and the handling didn't change at all". Anyone that says that has absolutley no clue about handling and cornering.....

            When you launch, you want the front end to come up, raising the center of gravity. As the front end comes up, the weight it was supporting is now supported by the rear wheels. Raising the center of gravity increases the moment lifting the front end. On the launch, the left front wants to come up first, and the right rear will want to squat.... a reaction to the torque at the driveshaft. With a sway bar, when the left front wants to rise, the sway bar, because is is connected to both sides of the suspension, prevents the left side from rising faster than the right side. Less rise on the front end = less total weight transfer to the rear.

            You reach a point where the lift on the front left will be excessive, and the whole chassis will twist at a wild angle - there was a picture on the 'net of Joe Overton's 9-second all-motor Trans Am displaying this sort of destructive twist. At that point, a VERY stiff rear sway bar becomes essential, to allow the chassis to be preloaded to stay level on launch and prevent body roll.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Injuneer
              Removing the front sway bar on a street driven car is not a good idea. It will allow excessive body roll in cornering and may cause the car to plow in corners or oversteer. Its there for a reason. Removing it completely produces a car that corners poorly. I've seen a large number of people counter with "I removed mine and the handling didn't change at all". Anyone that says that has absolutley no clue about handling and cornering.....

              When you launch, you want the front end to come up, raising the center of gravity. As the front end comes up, the weight it was supporting is now supported by the rear wheels. Raising the center of gravity increases the moment lifting the front end. On the launch, the left front wants to come up first, and the right rear will want to squat.... a reaction to the torque at the driveshaft. With a sway bar, when the left front wants to rise, the sway bar, because is is connected to both sides of the suspension, prevents the left side from rising faster than the right side. Less rise on the front end = less total weight transfer to the rear.

              You reach a point where the lift on the front left will be excessive, and the whole chassis will twist at a wild angle - there was a picture on the 'net of Joe Overton's 9-second all-motor Trans Am displaying this sort of destructive twist. At that point, a VERY stiff rear sway bar becomes essential, to allow the chassis to be preloaded to stay level on launch and prevent body roll.
              Well I know that for sure im not planning on running the car for more than a couple hours without the swaybar. Its simply for the time that Im at the track. I have The Subframe connectors plus im not pushing anything above stock horsepower so I dont think I would have to worry about twisting the body. So Even for just drag racing you would not recommend it Fred? Im simply trying to do everything possible to get every tenth off my times.
              Eddie
              2000 M6 Trans Am
              Tune+exhaust=344WHP

              Comment


              • #8
                Great for drag racing. Just pointing out that removing it completely may not be a good idea, since its a lot of work to drop it, and you may not get around to putting it back on. At the track, undo the end-link on one side. You will get the weight transfer benefits, just not the 20# weight reduction. Or pull it off completely, but don't take any hard turns on the way home.

                A buddy of mine took the front sway bar off his 30th SS convertible, because he was trying to get it into the 9's. I didn't realize he had taken it completely until I saw him in the shop poking under the car on a lift. The body was rolling so badly in a hard corners that the edge of the inner fender liner had sliced almost all the way through the sidewall of one of his 315/35 Comp T/A tires.

                I don't have a front sway bar, but I have the Spohn "drag race" rear bar that will hold the car level. But even with that, the car may stay level on corners, but it doesn't handle the way it used to.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Alot Fred. Yeah Im going to remove it. Yeah Ill take it very easy on the way to and from the track. As soon as I get home Im putting that thing back on. Even if I have to be under that dang car at 11pm. I believe you that the car will handle like crap. Plus I dont think Stock HP + SBC will not twist the body.
                  Eddie
                  2000 M6 Trans Am
                  Tune+exhaust=344WHP

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Injuneer
                    At the track, undo the end-link on one side. You will get the weight transfer benefits, just not the 20# weight reduction. Or pull it off completely, but don't take any hard turns on the way home.
                    If I do this, Do I just let the Sway bar hang?
                    Eddie
                    2000 M6 Trans Am
                    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The sway bar won't go anywhere if you only remove the end link on one side. The link on the other side will hold it level. The stock bolt will be very likely to break when you try and take it loose. They start to rust the minute the car leaves the factory. Get an Energy Suspension end link, with the poly bushings and the correct length sleeve to put on the side you plan to onbolt frequently.
                      Fred

                      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Injuneer
                        The sway bar won't go anywhere if you only remove the end link on one side. The link on the other side will hold it level. The stock bolt will be very likely to break when you try and take it loose. They start to rust the minute the car leaves the factory. Get an Energy Suspension end link, with the poly bushings and the correct length sleeve to put on the side you plan to onbolt frequently.
                        I dont know if you recall, I got a 1LE sway bar about 2 months ago and bought the ES end links. What I did was Loosen the end links from both sides. It was pretty just much just being held in place b/c the car was all floppy and the turn in's were horrible. I dont know if it helped to much b/c I was having Traction problems (Was using Street tires). So Im going to try it next time by removing one of the end links. Thanks for the tip Fred.
                        Eddie
                        2000 M6 Trans Am
                        Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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