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clunk in thr diff?

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  • #1

    clunk in thr diff?

    when i drive off , after a complete stop, i can hear a few clunks , pretty loud, and its like clunk, a a couple seconds then clunk again and so on ...its not like a continuuous clunking. i can hear it till i get to 20 mph, and i cant hear it at high speeds, maybe becauce of the exhaust, also i dont hear it if i accelerate hard.
    Is the diff going , or i might be able to fix this with a diff fluid change and limited slip additive?

    Tomorrow i ll check if the limited slip is working properly, but today it felt ok while driving
    93 t/a A4 3.23s
    95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
    99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
    99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
    97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
    93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
    00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Could be loose/worn U-joints in the driveshaft, excessive backlash in the gears. I'm assuming from the way you describe it that it happens when going straight, as opposed to only on turns?
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      It doest matter if i m going straight or in turns, the clunk is there still, and when i put it neutral it goes away. also when i let off the gas it goes away. seems to be coming from rear right but i cant be sure, the exhaust is too loud, haha this is one of the times i wish i had a quiet exhaust

      I noticed a while ago that it has got some drivetrain 'slap' but i thought it was normal for an 11 year old car.

      how do i check if the u-joints are bad?
      93 t/a A4 3.23s
      95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
      99 Camaro z28 a4, 2.73, !AIR, !A/C
      99 Alfa Romeo 166 3.0 v6, red
      97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
      93 Camaro Z28 M6, hotcam kit, 150 shot, twin plate clutch, eibach pro kit and bilstein shocks, swaybars etc
      00 audi a6 4.2 40 valve v8

      Comment

      • #4
        Put the trans in neutral and try and twist the driveshaft in one direction, then the other. Watch and see if the play is in the u-joints (front or rear), or internal to the differential (pinion shaft moves excessively).
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

        Comment

        • #5
          Taking the load off the driveshaft by putting it in neutral and having the noise disappear suggests excessive play in the driveshaft U joints.

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