I want to upgrade my suspension so that I get better traction off the line. I already have LCA relocation brackets and 11" ZR1's, but I still think that LCA's and a torque arm of some sort would help me out even more. I only want to get one or the other for now though. So my question is... would I see more improvements in traction from a torque arm or new LCA's? Also, if i were to go with a new torque arm should i get an adjustable one or a non-adjustable one and why? Thanks the suggestions and help.
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1993 Formula - 99k
Throttle body bypass, K&N FIPK II, SLP Loudmouth, Mad Z28 Chip, 3.73 motives, TPI airfoil, Spohn LCA relocation brackets, Fuddle 3200 Stall, B&M Supercooler, LS1 driveshaft, and chrome ZR1's 17"/9.5" and 17/11" in the back!!!
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I would go with some LCA's and an adjustable Pan Hard. You can get both for the price of the TA. The LCA's will for sure make a difference in planting the power and the PanHard will help the axle from shifting side to side and keep it stationary. UMI has the kit for the adjustable Control arms and adjustable PanHard for around $260. Unless your car is not lowered you can use a
adjustable PanHard. I have one that im trying to get rid of since I lowered my car.
Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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check out the J&M lca's from hotpart.com. i bought them for my 87 GTA. there is an article on them over at camaroz28.com.87 GTA: it's winter time, all tore apart
ConElite: "Im 22, have had my TA since I was 21."
"I wont lie, I have a heavy foot, but at the same time I know when its the safest to ring out a gear or 2."Comment
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doesn't really matter what u do first. The panhard and lca's will give u more instant gratification and costs less, but u will need the torque arm eventually.
I'd go adj. panhard, NA LCA's, and an adjustablt TA.97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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Tubular LCA's, with at least one rod end will provide the best results. Definitely required before anything else. On the other hand, people have run 10's on the stock torque arm.
Take a serious look at the Spohn PErformance parts. For a few bucks more than the copy-cat fabricators, you can get the best quality parts available.
All Spohn for me......
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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You Can only Invent the wheel once. ha ha ha haOriginally posted by Injuneer
Sorry Fred, I had too.
Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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My mildly modded LT1 ripped a torque arm in half.Originally posted by Injuneer
97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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