My heater is barely putting out any heat at all. I looked at the heater core and it looks fine no bent fins or anything like that. Any suggestions on what else it might be. I was thinking it might be clogged.
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Is the blower not blowing hard or is the heat simply not warm?96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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First.... what temperature thermostat are you running, what are your fan on/off temps set at? What kind of temperatures are you seeing on the dash coolant temp gauge when the engine is at full operating temp?
Next..... when you move the heating/air conditioning controls, does the system respond properly by moving the air flow to the correct position.... floor and or dash? A problem with the vacuum supply to the controls is common. I would rule that out first.
Finally..... when you mention looking at the heater core... how did you do that? It is buried under the dash in a box? What you really need to do is insure the interior of the core piping is not clogged with sludge.... again a very common problem with an almost 10-year old car, if the cooling system has not been meticulously maintained. The best thing to do is try and flush the heater core, by removing the hoses at the radiator end and forcing water through the system with a hose.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Bry
Last week my heater stopped putting out heat on my '94 Camaro. I put about 2 cups of water where the engine coolant goes and about 3 blocks later the heat kicked back on. Took it into the dealer to have it checked and it turns out I had a leaking water pump, among other things.
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hear any hissing formt eh dash control unit?? if yes, you havea vacuum leak that is preventing teh unit form controlling the heat. Just had the control unit repalced on my 92 RS for this reason. Heater works fine now.2000 Z-28 Convertible, neutral leather interior and neutral top, hotchkis STB, SLP Bowtie Grill, WhisperLid, K&N, cold air induction
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I know what the heater core looks like cause I had a vaccum leak before and got in there to check all the hoses to see what if they were leaking anywhere in there. It turned out to be the 3 way valve by the CPC had cracked. When I turn it to heat it makes the air a little bit hotter but barley so I'm thinking clogged heater core too. My cars fans are just on the stock setting and my car runs anywhere from 220 degrees to 180 just depends if i'm sitting in traffic or out on the highway.1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.
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When was the last time you flushed and filled your coolent? If you don't do it at least every 65k or so the leak stopper in the coolent begins to coagulate and will start to clog up your system.
If this is the case I'd suggest reverse flushing the heater core. I did and got some gunk out. Also you may be in danger of losing your low coolent sensor. This is fairly common in people that don't change the coolent as per the manual. I was one and found out the hard way.Joe K.
'11 BMW 328i
'10 Matrix S AWD
Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP
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Originally posted by Joe K. 96 Zeee!!
If you don't do it at least every 65k or so the leak stopper in the coolent begins to coagulate and will start to clog up your system.
96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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Originally posted by 94 formula
How do I do reverse flushing?Joe K.
'11 BMW 328i
'10 Matrix S AWD
Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP
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Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
Leak stopper???? Explain.Joe K.
'11 BMW 328i
'10 Matrix S AWD
Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP
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