All right here it is i have a 1996 trans am ws6 lt1. my problem started about a week ago. started running like crap, cutting off while i was driving and running really erratick. so i hooked it up to a scanner it popped a 1371 and a 372. so looking into it i changed out the opti spark and it cleared the 1371, but the 372 still exist. now it wont start at all. if anyone could be of any help i would appreciate it. oh by the way it was running after i changed out the opti spark. i love this forrum you guys all rock.....
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broken trans am
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You've lost the high resolution pulse from the Opti (P0372) and the low resolution pulse (P1371). The PCM shuts down the fuel system for P1371, and the engine will not start. If you only have P0372, it should still start.
Have you inspected the harness connectors for the Opti? If they are damaged or corroded, it can cause the problem you are experiencing. Check both ends of the harness...... at the Opti and on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold.
It may also be a problem with the Opti not being indexed correctly to the cam dowel pin. Does it simply crank, with no signs of any cylinders firing, or does it sound like the ignition is there, but backfiring?Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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BREAKIN DOWN HERE!
BROKEN T/A Well I have checked the power to the side to the line,load side of the coil it show's power to both sides but still no spark. Now I checked to the line side, and load side of the opti spark and it has power as well !! AWWWWWW! I'm ready to break down can you help me please? Any help would be greatly be appreciated
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There have been a number of instances where brand new factory Opti's had the rotor come loose.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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starting but still broken
So I just got my Trans Am back from the shop> It starts know but still pops a 372 and cuts off while Im driving after it warms up. Parts that I changed are the Coil, Opti Spark, Ignition Module, Crank Sensor, Fuel Filter. Still in the process of trouble shooting Thanks everyone, for the help.
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Originally posted by InjuneerHave you inspected the harness connectors for the Opti? If they are damaged or corroded, it can cause the problem you are experiencing. Check both ends of the harness...... at the Opti and on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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fixed it finally
So anyways after about 1400 bucks and alot of heart ache what it finally came down to was that the water pump was leaking out of the shaft on to the optispark wich would inturn short out and quit running. So now she runs like a champ. I have changed quite a few parts out so hopefully she's a little more reliable. I would venture to say the design of the lt1 leaves much to be desired. Is there anything out there to replace the water pump or optispark design...........
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Most everyone complains that the water pump starts leaking from the weep hole at the bottom of the pump - this releases coolant directly onto the opti and causes driveability issues.
Most people modify the water pump by installing a "vent hose" from the weep hole, behind the opti and to the bottom of the timing cover preventing failure in case of the water pump failing. This won't help with a shaft leak but the weep hole is even more prone to leak.
Fred (Injuneer) has modified (or I should really say eliminated) his opti. There's a write-up on his site on how he did it. And if there's anyone I'd trust as far as reliable mods, it's definitely him.
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My Opti is not modified, and no article??? It is a "vented" conversion, and I don't use the high voltage portion, only the optical sensor. Many years ago I had the Electromotive Opti-Eliminator, but when the stroker was built, I went to a different system using 8 LS1-style coils.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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