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  • Rear brakes

    I can't get the new pads to fit over the rotor. I pushed the piston in as far as it will go and the pads seem to be positioned correctly. I did the fronts yesterday without this problem. Any suggestions?
    At this point I am thinking of just putting the old pads back on with my new rotors, unless that is a bad idea.

    Thanks

    Ryan
    96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

  • #2
    How close are they?

    Is it both sides?

    Are you POSITIVE the parts store gave you the correct parts?
    My DD
    2015 Lexus GS350 FSport

    My toy

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    • #3
      It is a problem on both sides. I need about another 1/8 inch for it to fit. At this point I am thinking I don't have the correct pads. I am going to look that up right now.
      96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

      Comment


      • #4
        Double check the caliper mounting brackets and make sure they are installed flush.

        Also check the sliders as well. Make sure they are not seized. They should move in and out rather easily and will need to be in as far as they can go to give you the clearance you need. You may even want to remove and check them just to be safe. Just lube them up good before you reinstall them.

        With it being both sides I say definitely check for correct parts. Having something wrong, damaged, mis-aligned on one side is one thing but the chances of the exact same problem on both sides is small. That suggests that the problem is something both sides have in common, like a wrong replacement part.
        My DD
        2015 Lexus GS350 FSport

        My toy

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        • #5
          Looks like the parts are correct. Checked the part # on the box with the one from Advance Auto online and they match. I will try to play with the sliders a little more to see if I can get any more out of them. If that doesn't work the old pads are going back on.
          96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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          • #6
            You do have the e-brake off????
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              E brake was off. I ended up putting the old pads in with my new rotors. The e brake does grab sooner now even though I don't think I did anything to adjust it. I may take it somewhere to get new pads put in so I don't destroy the new rotors, because I can hear the left rear at least scraping with the brakes off.
              Thanks for the replys.
              96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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              • #8
                Has the E-brake been adjusted up so it's not releasing enough? Check the cable adjustment and loosen it a little and try installing the pads. You shouldn't have an issue if all the parts are correct.
                2005 GTO (mine) K&N CAI and Magnaflow exhaust, drilled and slotted rotors, and other minor mods.
                1994 Formula (mine) SOLD 6-23-08 Still miss it
                2002 V6 Firebird (wifes)
                2013 GMC Sierra (mine)
                2011 Cadillac CTS4 (wifes)

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                • #9
                  Maybe the e brake is not releasing enough. I will take a look at it in a couple of days when I get a chance.
                  96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    PROBLEM SOLVED!
                    I gave it another try today, and realized what I was doing wrong. When I removed the calipers I rested them on a bucket so they wouldn't dangle. The bucket however was higher than their normal installed position and that put tension on the E brake cable creating the problem. Feels good to have fixed it, and I hope someone else will gain from my stupid mistake.
                    Thanks for all your input.

                    Ryan
                    96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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