AC Went Out....Need Advice.

[97LT1Z28]

Hey guys!

My compressor went. It's turning and it's quiet, the clutch engages just fine and the freon level is good and nothing's leaking......but it's hot.

I took it in and they told me that the compressor isn't working on the inside due to the mileage on it - just plain wore out.

I want round up the parts - GM compressor, dryer/accumulator and expansion valve and do it myself.

So I don't blow my hand off while taking everything apart, how should I de-pressurize the system?

[sneitzel]

I think legally you need to take it somewhere and let them "recover" the freon from inside the system. Don't know what they'll charge you, maybe nothing if you take it back to them to be evacuated/recharged aftet the repair.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

R134 is CFC free so it's not supposed to hurt the environment. If your compressor isn't working neither side is under very much pressure. Never the less you can let it out the low side on the passenger side fender. It's only like 50 psi so it's not much more than a tire. I'd put a rag over it so you don't blow the oil in the Freon all over the engine.

You are going to have to vacuum it down when you get it back together. Do you have a way to do that? Don't forget to put pag oil in it first when you are charging it.

There are a lot of special tools used for A/C repair. This might be one to leave to the pros.

[sneitzel]

I was under the impression that you still were not supposed to purposefully vent the system, CFCs or not...Am I wrong?

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I'm not sure.

[97LT1Z28]

Cool.


I'm still weighing the option of taking it in or doing it myself.

I don't have a vacuum pump or the tools for fittings.

considering the price of the gm compressor (even Jason Cromer's price ) and having to buy the vacuum pump and other tools, I might just take it in....

[sneitzel]

I believe you can do the repair work then take it somewhere and have it evacuated and charged. That would also give the shop a chance to leak test the system before charging it. I don't believe you'll damage anythng by driving it to a shop as long as you don't turn on the AC.

[84-fire]

Don't convert to R-134A

I'm not sure this applies 100% to your A/C woe, but thought I'd share because my results were so poor. One of our other cars is an '89 Ford Country Squire. Its compressor seized, so a new one was ordered. While that was being installed at a garage, they suggested converting the R-12 system to R-134A (R-134A is the latest environmentally safe refrigerant that's theoretically compatible with older, R-12 systems). I'm in Maine, where they've banned that sale of R-12 so no one can get a molecule of the stuff legally. This reduced my options on a car with acres of glass and navy-blue roof to no A/C or converting to R-134A. I chose to convert the system. Technically, it works - the A/C hardware is all operating just fine, but you only get cold air out of the R-134A when its not hot (like after sundown or on cool days). If it's 90 degrees outside with 98% humidity - forget A/C.

I've been told a thousand rumors like overcharging the system by (insert any number, here) % will make it work- but who knows? My experience with R-134A was a total failure and ran me $1,500. Again, this was on a Ford with a 5 liter, so may not apply to how a GM conversion might go.

[Red93TA]

i don't think its the 134a that caused your system not to work when its hot outside. Apparently it is still low on freon. I've converter all of our vehicles myself to r134a and i don't have that problem on any of them. 89 ford bronco, 91 chevy 1 ton 454, 87 camaro z28, 91 acura integra, as a matter of fact the county workers here ( my dad works there) at the auto shop take and mix the r134 and the r12 and have had no ill consequences. These guys are all trained mechanics. Abunch of the crap about the 134 is bs. It cools just as well and works just right. The only reason I have found that makes it not cool when it is extremely hot outside... keep in mind i'm in central tx 95+ days all summer with humidity in the 50+ % all the time here is being low on freon. ....... For the original post about wanting to do it yourself, it can definately be done yourself if you get a good set of guages at an auto parts store i bought the one's from advance auto parts here it even came with instructions on how to evacuate the system yourself all i had to use was an empty helium tank from a hobby store, an adapter to fit the tank which the auto store carried for around 8 bucks and the instructions on the back of the box the guages came in. I went to the local pawn shops and found alot of vacuum pumps to pull the system down they were inexpensive i paid around 35 dollars for one of those keep in mind that adapter i mentioned you will probably have to have for the vacuum pump too because most are still setup for r12 and it used different fittings, all in all it was way cheaper to do it myself than the 12-1800 the shops charge plus now you have all the equipment to do it again on something else if necessary. ~Heath

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I'm not sure this applies 100% to your A/C woe, but thought I'd share because my results were so poor. One of our other cars is an '89 Ford Country Squire. Its compressor seized, so a new one was ordered. While that was being installed at a garage, they suggested converting the R-12 system to R-134A (R-134A is the latest environmentally safe refrigerant that's theoretically compatible with older, R-12 systems). I'm in Maine, where they've banned that sale of R-12 so no one can get a molecule of the stuff legally. This reduced my options on a car with acres of glass and navy-blue roof to no A/C or converting to R-134A. I chose to convert the system. Technically, it works - the A/C hardware is all operating just fine, but you only get cold air out of the R-134A when its not hot (like after sundown or on cool days). If it's 90 degrees outside with 98% humidity - forget A/C.

I've been told a thousand rumors like overcharging the system by (insert any number, here) % will make it work- but who knows? My experience with R-134A was a total failure and ran me $1,500. Again, this was on a Ford with a 5 liter, so may not apply to how a GM conversion might go.

All 93 and up F-bodies are R134 from the factory.

I converted a 1985 Mustang GT 5.0 from R12 to R134 and it worked perfect.

[97LT1Z28]

Hey guys! I did it! bought a rebuilt compressor (GM's new compressors were too high - $733) orfice tube, expansion valve and dryer/accumulator. Put it all in and had a shop evacuate the system, lube the compressor and charge it up.

Now my car is like Antartica on the inside!

Here's something freaky..... In the recent past, I had to install the SLP fan control switch because my fans were'nt coming on and it was running hot. With the new AC in, the fans are operating normally. I like those 2 for 1 fixes!

Thanks for all your advise and support!

[raroZ28]

i know how good it feels. My car wasn't cold last week, was blowing warm air. Two cans of r-134a and now it's shootin blizzards. Love it.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Hey guys! I did it! bought a rebuilt compressor (GM's new compressors were too high - $733) orfice tube, expansion valve and dryer/accumulator. Put it all in and had a shop evacuate the system, lube the compressor and charge it up.

Now my car is like Antartica on the inside!

Here's something freaky..... In the recent past, I had to install the SLP fan control switch because my fans were'nt coming on and it was running hot. With the new AC in, the fans are operating normally. I like those 2 for 1 fixes!

Thanks for all your advise and support!

Good deal. That's a good way to do it too. Good job.

[Warren Seale]

I didn't think the A/C systems using the thermal expantion valve uses an orifice tube. Where is it located?

Warren

[aburke]

I've been told a thousand rumors like overcharging the system by (insert any number, here) % will make it work- but who knows? My experience with R-134A was a total failure and ran me $1,500.

I've heard it should be undercharged by about 10% when converting. Also, you need a different orifice tube or expansion valve for 134a. Hopefully, the Ford uses an orifice tube -- it's easier to replace. Check to make sure the shop did this and used the correct one for R134a. If it's still not cooling well, make sure the electric condenser fan is working or install one if you don't have one.