I have been doing a search on hard starts when the vehicle is cold, well, because I have been experiencing this problem lately. When the T/A is up to temp, it will start in a heartbeat, but in the morning, it takes A LOT longer, almost like it doesn't want to. I've found info for the following possibilities...fuel pressure regulator, check valve, ect., but I would really like to know (if someone else knows!) what it would have to do with the car being cold versus hot? The T/A runs better than ever, but I am just having an issue with cold starts. My fuel economy is excellant, too. I would assume that if it was any of these parts, they would act up all the time, not just when it was cold. I am taking it on a 1500 mile round trip next week, and want to take care of any problems before I go! Any help appreciated
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What are you using, Gear oil? It could be a number of things. Chances are its going to be fuel related. When you say hard starting, Does it crank over just like when its worm, just takes more time for it to turn over? Or does it barely want to crank like if the engine is locking up?Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Originally posted by ConEliteWhen you say hard starting, Does it crank over just like when its worm, just takes more time for it to turn over?
I just wonder why it only does it when the engine is "cold" versus after it's been running awhile. Hmmmmmm
Gear oil??? Nahhhh, I just use "gunk" for engine lubrication1996 White T/A, LT-1 auto with only aftermarket Flowmasters, shift kit, and a LG Motorsports G2 cold air kit.....that's it! She can't eat all the 'Stangs but will die trying.
Currently on the clock: 120K
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Originally posted by 88bird5spdturn the key to on a couple times be4 u start it cold, see if it starts up better that way1996 White T/A, LT-1 auto with only aftermarket Flowmasters, shift kit, and a LG Motorsports G2 cold air kit.....that's it! She can't eat all the 'Stangs but will die trying.
Currently on the clock: 120K
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Difficulty with cold starts can be related to loss of fuel pressure, due to leaking pump check valve, leaking injectors or fuel pressure regulator. Simply putting a fuel pressure test gauge on it will tell you if that's the problem.
From the PCM side, a faulty coolant temp sensor can cause hard start problems. The PCM bases the cold start fuel enrichment on the coolant temperature.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by 88bird5spdturn the key to on a couple times be4 u start it cold, see if it starts up better that way1996 White T/A, LT-1 auto with only aftermarket Flowmasters, shift kit, and a LG Motorsports G2 cold air kit.....that's it! She can't eat all the 'Stangs but will die trying.
Currently on the clock: 120K
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What Fred said............
If the fuel pump takes more than a second to prime on a cold start, you'll get a hard start. Whether you turn the key on and off three times or whether you just let it prime for 10 seconds in the run position before trying the start, that gives the pump enough time to build enough pressure. This is a sure sign that the fuel pump is getting weak. Change it before it quits and leaves you stranded somewhere.
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