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  • Headers and fuel filter tool

    Ok, these are 2 things that have been bugging me. First, I noticed my fuel filter has a metal colar, not a plastic one. According to my Chilton's manual, I need some special tool. Any idea what it is, how much, etc.? Also, I've been thinking about putting SLP headers on as well. Are they hard to put on and do I need to constantly tighten them up as is the curse with all other headers(as I'm told)? Thanks in advance.
    Steve
    79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
    87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
    93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
    http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

  • #2
    Your fuel filter should have a threaded fitting on one side and a quick connect on the other (like shown in the top, right here).
    Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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    • #3
      I have the metal one, I already know that and I know how to get it off. What I need to know is how much the tool is that I need. Also, any ideas about the headers?
      Steve
      79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
      87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
      93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
      http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

      Comment


      • #4
        Hmmm new one on me...I've never needed a special tool to remove mine...all I do is remove the retaining nut and depress the 2 plastic tabs and pull apart...



        KnightFire
        1993 Formula Firebird
        Check Homepage for mods and photos...

        KnightFire's Lair


        Amsoil Dealer

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        • #5
          Alright, I'll have to get under there and take a look again. Anyone have any ideas on the headers?
          Steve
          79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
          87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
          93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
          http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

          Comment


          • #6
            They make a "quick-disconnect" tool, you can buy one for about $2 as pepboys or any autoparts place. But a flat screw driver will also work.

            SLP stuff is usually pretty hi quality. I have heard headers are a pain in the butt to install, it takes a lot of time, and I am sure a lift would make it easier.

            I had mine installed when I swapped the motor, and I haven't had any trouble with the bolts or anything.

            Randy
            99 TA "RBLUTA" - NBM, M6, Whisper Lid, SLP Fan Switch, 160* Thermo, SLP LM, BMR STB & LCA's.


            ***SOLD*** It will be missed!!
            93 Formula "FRMLAV8" -383 Stroker

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            • #7
              As for the headers...what other mods do you have planned? What kind of gains are you looking for? Yes headers ARE a PITA to install...but can be done with the proper space, tools, and most of all PATIENCE. Personally I'd rather pay someone...I'm more apt to start throwing tools at this point, LOL.



              KnightFire
              1993 Formula Firebird
              Check Homepage for mods and photos...

              KnightFire's Lair


              Amsoil Dealer

              Comment


              • #8
                Yes, I throw tools all the time...i feel your pain guys lol So, a flat-head screwdriver will work just as well for the filter? Is there any actual difference between the plastic and metal collar? Thanks for the help guys.
                Steve
                79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Steve93Z
                  Yes, I throw tools all the time...i feel your pain guys lol So, a flat-head screwdriver will work just as well for the filter? Is there any actual difference between the plastic and metal collar? Thanks for the help guys.
                  The metal one requires a tool (like the one at the fuel rails) and the plastic one requires no tools (see link I posted). I have never heard of anyone having the metal one on the fuel filter.
                  Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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                  • #10
                    There are two types of diconnect tools. One is a single or collection of plastic collars of varied sizes that circles the fuel line and is pushed into the fitting and uncouples the connection. The second is a metal multi size wrench type that does the same thing. I am going to suggest the metal one..... available at Autozone for approximately $5. I am curous though. I've never seen a metal tab on the fuel filter. Just a standard threaded connection on one end and the quick disconnect platic tab on the other.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Joe 1320
                      I am curous though. I've never seen a metal tab on the fuel filter. Just a standard threaded connection on one end and the quick disconnect platic tab on the other.
                      I've had 2 95s and my current 94.... I've Never seen anything but plastic quick disconnect at the filter either. The metal ones are up by the fuel rail.

                      93s could be different???

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                      • #12
                        I have used the plastic Lisle brand disconnects. They worked well. used on fuel rail where there is not a lot of room
                        Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Most people I've talked to also have the plastic collar, but I felt around and I'm one of the unlucky few I guess that have the metal collar on the one end. Thanks guys for the advice. I'll check Kragen or Pep Boys for that wrench. If I get a chance, I'll take a pic of the collar and post it.
                          Steve
                          79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                          87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                          93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                          http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You do realize that there are two different connections on the stock filter. The inlet, facing the rear of the car is a "GM" plastic spring clip attaching a flexible plastic fuel line, and the outlet, facing the front of the car is a threaded fitting, connecting to a rigid steel line. The outlet connection requires two wrenches.
                            Fred

                            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                            • #15
                              Yes, I realize this. There are also two different connections that could have been used on the rear-facing connection. I've noticed that most have the pastic slip-collar. However, when I looked under the car, mine was a metal one.
                              Steve
                              79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                              87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                              93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                              http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                              Comment

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