I just got my subframe connectors put on and WOW. the car drives WAY better now! Now, i've read about both the pulleys and STB and i'm deciding between the two. I know alot of people have mixed opinions on both, but i want to do one or the other because of the cost.(both will cost me only around $100) This will probably be the last thing i do for my car in a long while so i need to get some advice about these 2 things. If i go with the pulleys i will get a 160 degree thermostat. Which one, if any, should i go with and why? Thanks Very much!
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Underdrive pulleys or shock tower brace?
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How about neither. You won't notice the shock tower brace. The underdrive pully causes charging problems.
Panhard bar. Still around $100 and you will notice the difference.2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"
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I'd say keep the $ and wait until you want to get into the engine for heads, cam, and headers.... why take apart the engine multiple times when it's easier to do it all at once. Consider the money an investment in future funRhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*
2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
pics and info
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You should do more suspension mods. A Panhard, Control arms, Relocation brackets, or you can Have up to do a head job or something big, but I'd still recommend to finish your suspension first so you can PLant that power. Underdrive pully is only going to give you charging problems. No good. Its not worth the maybe 1hp you gain.Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Yeah that is exactly what i was thinking...i've read about both and both usually didnt get good remarks. About the relocation brackets: i know they help me get alot of traction, but how are they on intallation? any welding involved?1994 Pontiac Trans Am A4 Pacesetter Ceramic Coated Longtubes,3" ORY,Dual 3" Cutouts,No Cat,!AIR,!EGR,K&N CAI,Flowmaster Exhaust,Mad Z28 Tune,Spohn Subframe Connectors,Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs,KYB Shocks,17x9.5 Chrome ZO6 Rims,5% Tint
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Originally posted by RICEATER94BirdAbout the relocation brackets: i know they help me get alot of traction, but how are they on intallation? any welding involved?
This is on my car when I was Installing mine. Just did the best I could with my welder then took it to a shop to have it professionally welded.
Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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i'm with jeff.
UD pulleys are the biggest waste of money.97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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a STB only helps the car in corners, it's a handling mod. also the part about UD pulleys causing charging problems isn't really true. you can buy kits that don't alter how your car charges at all. they come with a crank and PS pulley and that's it, no alternator pulley. it's still a waste of money though. also another thing to consider when thinking about modding your suspension. the more power you actually get to the ground, the better chance you have of breaking stock parts. i see it happen all the time. my buddy has an 02 formula that did it. in specific, he upgraded a bunch of his stock suspension to get more power to the ground, 2 weeks later the car was sitting in his driveway with a blown apart rear end. if your car is an auto you probably wouldn't have to worry about it as much.87 GTA: it's winter time, all tore apart
ConElite: "Im 22, have had my TA since I was 21."
"I wont lie, I have a heavy foot, but at the same time I know when its the safest to ring out a gear or 2."
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If i do the relo brackets,panhard and controll arms i will go ahead and order them from spohn again. about the brackets, are they installed where my subframes are welded to the controll arm brackets??1994 Pontiac Trans Am A4 Pacesetter Ceramic Coated Longtubes,3" ORY,Dual 3" Cutouts,No Cat,!AIR,!EGR,K&N CAI,Flowmaster Exhaust,Mad Z28 Tune,Spohn Subframe Connectors,Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs,KYB Shocks,17x9.5 Chrome ZO6 Rims,5% Tint
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Originally posted by RICEATER94BirdIf i do the relo brackets,panhard and controll arms i will go ahead and order them from spohn again. about the brackets, are they installed where my subframes are welded to the controll arm brackets??Eddie
2000 M6 Trans Am
Tune+exhaust=344WHP
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Originally posted by MunsonGTAa STB only helps the car in corners, it's a handling mod. also the part about UD pulleys causing charging problems isn't really true. you can buy kits that don't alter how your car charges at all. they come with a crank and PS pulley and that's it, no alternator pulley.
U/D pulley dyno.... 0.7 peak HP gain.
http://www.ws6.com/mod-2.htmFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by InjuneerIf you put on an underdrive pulley on the crank, you slow down everything the serpentine belt drives - alternator, A/C and power steering. To keep the alternator at full charge, you need a set that consists of an underdrive crank pulley and an overdrive alternator pulley. The crank pulley slows the alternator down and the alternator pulley speeds it back up. March calls this their "Power & Amp" set. They also make a "max performance" set that includes an underdrive crank pulley and an underdrive alternator pulley, to really slow the alternator down. Very likely to cause the system voltage to drop at stock idle speeds. I've never seen a set with an underdrive PS pulley.
U/D pulley dyno.... 0.7 peak HP gain.
http://www.ws6.com/mod-2.htm87 GTA: it's winter time, all tore apart
ConElite: "Im 22, have had my TA since I was 21."
"I wont lie, I have a heavy foot, but at the same time I know when its the safest to ring out a gear or 2."
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An underdrive pulley would provide over 10HP on your engine, because the water pump is belt driven. The LT1 doesn't gain that much because the water pump is gear driven off the timing set, not by the belt.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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