Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Should I change my oil?

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Should I change my oil?

    I normally drive my car 5 to 6 days a week. Since I really only use it to drive to work and back (about 4 miles round trip) I don't put very many miles on it. I would say a little over a 1000 miles in 6 months, which is also how long it has been since my last oil change. I run mobile 1 synthetic. How many months should I go before I change my oil? Or should I change it now? At this rate I won't hit 3000 miles for another year.

  • #2
    Well if I drive a lot, I might get 1000 - 1500 miles on the T/A during the Summer months.

    I usually change the oil when it comes out of the winter sleep in the Spring and again in the Fall when I stop driving it.
    97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


    1and1 Web Hosting

    Comment


    • #3
      After a year, regardless of miles...
      Mike, So. MD, USA
      1998 Camaro 3800 5m, Borla, Whisperlid/K&N, ProForm shortshift, 17" chrome SS wheels, poly bushings

      Comment


      • #4
        I do every 3000 miles or every 2 monthes. Whatever comes first.

        Comment


        • #5
          3000 miles or 3 months...in storage is a nother story. I don't skimp on the oil, you shouldn't either.

          Christopher Teng

          1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
          Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
          B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
          Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
          Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

          Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

          F-Body Dirty Dozen

          Comment


          • #6
            Keep in mind that it is synthetic oil, so rules for petroleum based oil don't necessarily apply. Oil breakdown is not the same as petro-based, so consider that at least. That really is low mileage, however, so cost surely isn't the issue if you only changed once or twice a year. I would change it for GPs anyway, even if not for the fact that it probably doesn't really need to be changed at this point.
            2000 Z-28 Convertible, neutral leather interior and neutral top, hotchkis STB, SLP Bowtie Grill, WhisperLid, K&N, cold air induction

            Comment


            • #7
              The problem with your low mileage and VERY short trips is not with the oil "wearing out". Its a problem with the oil getting contaminated, primarily with the blowby that gets past the piston rings - combustion gasses contain a large amount of water. If you were driving 10-15 miles one way every trip, the oil would be hot enough to evaporate the water and other compounds that form. But with a 4 mile round trip, its not likely your oil is getting anywhere near hot enough to drive off the harmful condensates.

              As a result, the condensates form acidic compounds in the oil, and start to eat at the bearing materials. It makes little difference whether you are running synthetic or conventional oil. The condensate is going to be there.

              You could prolong the oil life by taking at least one long drive every week, to get the oil hot enough to get rid of the harmful compounds. Otherwise, you should be changing the oil every three months or maybe even more frequently.

              Short trips are harder on the engine than long ones.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm kind of in the same boat you guys are in, but I came up with my own solution. I rarely drive my bird, maybe once every couple of months. But, when I do drive it, I let the car idle for at least 10 minutes before I even think about driving, which down here in this heat, means that the cooling fans are coming on at least once (I do have the Hypertech programmed to come on early and I also have a 160 t-stat). I try to crank it up every couple of weeks, and if not, at least once a month, idling the car 10 to 15 minutes every time, regardless as to whether I actually drive it anywhere. This keeps oil everywhere oil needs to be, burns off the condensation, and keeps the battery charged up.

                I go through a similar process with my daily driver, and people are always telling me I'm nuts for letting my van run 5-10 minutes every morning before I ever move it. My theory is the van is at operating temperature, plus the interior is cool/hot depending on the season, and with 280,000 miles, the nicer I am to that motor, the longer it will last me. I have a remote start on my bike as well, and that one runs at least 3 minutes before it ever gets moved, but being a sportbike, they warm up a lot quicker than a car does (less coolant capacity, smaller radiator, higher base idle, etc.)
                "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

                Comment


                • #9
                  You will be surprised how long it takes the oil to reach a normal operating temperature. I have an oil temp gauge on the A-pillar, and it can take a good 10 miles or more of driving before the temp peaks and stabilizes. When you cold start, its running rich. That just means there's more liquid fuel in the cylinders to run down the walls.

                  I face this problem with my car. Its a "track" car. I don't currently have an inspection sticker on it, so its not easy to drive it on the street. But it pains me to just let it warm up in the driveway. Every once in a while I just have to get out on the road and get it good an hot. Sunday mornings are the time when its less likely there will be any sort of law enforcement on the local limited access highways......
                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X