Still throwing out P1371!!?!?

[RAF7789]

I'm getting so damn frustrated now. i replaced the opti adapter harness and the spark plug wires. i put everything back together today and tried to start it, but the check engine light was still on, P1371/P1371p/d came out and i cleared them and tried again. the codes came right back on. The description of these codes is as good as greek to me. but any other ideas or any help would ease my stress.

[Injuneer]

The PCM can't find the low resolution signal from the Opti optical sensor. If the code keeps coming back, and you have replaced the harness, and carefully examined the connector on the Opti for damage, your most likely cause is a faulty optical sensor in the Opti.

[RAF7789]

well i'm gonna take off the opti and inspect the terminals because, from what i've heard the wires are kinda criss/cross on the inside because of the order of the plugs(on opti) versus the firing order. I'll check it out though...multiple beers have rested me for today.

[Injuneer]

We're talking about 2 different things. What I'm saying is that the tiny electric pulse signal is not getting from the optical sensor in the rear 1/2 of the Opti, to the PCM. That's the only thing connected to the harness wires - the optical sensor. A failure of the pulse pattern sets the trouble code.

That has nothing to do with the cross-firing that can happen in the cap, when it loses its dielectric strength. You are correct about conductors being embedded in the epoxy on the cap, to route the internal buttons in the correct sequence to the plug wire towers. But a failure in that area will not set any kind of code. It will just run rough.

[RAF7789]

but either way i'm going to need to take it off, take it apart and see whats going on. How would i check for a faulty opti-sensor?

Also, what is the best way to take off the crankshaft pulley. I have all the bolts out and i have a bolt-type pulley remover in place. but its really hard toscrew in the center bolt to pop off the pulley....

[Injuneer]

You could check the optical sensor output with a 'scope. Shoebox has a quick check to verify that the signal is eventually facilitating the firing of the plugs.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

In theory, the damper/pulley should just fall off the hub after you remove the three bolts that connect it to the hub. Mine did, but that was in 1994 when the car was only a few months old. Yours is being held on by rust. A lot of PB Blaster might help. Then a few taps with a hammer or a pry bar. Do not hit or pry the outer edge of the pulley, because that can damage the rubber ring that holds the inner and outer rings of the damper together.

Shoebox also has a diagram on how to use a puller on the damper.

http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg