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NOT just another header question

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  • NOT just another header question

    I am about ready to purchase some headers.

    My question is, if i go with mac mids with they be enough to support a 383 or 396 stroker with a preddy big cam?

    or do i need long tubes?

    what is the power differences?
    1995 LT1 bird
    10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
    275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

    2005 Dode SRT-4
    agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
    6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

  • #2
    If you're going to go through the time and energy of getting headers you might as well get the best ones.

    Get longtubes. They will work better with your future plans and will help with your peak numbers.

    If you can swing it financially, I would recommend getting stainless steel.

    My ride is here: http://www.cardomain.com/id/1995RAMAIR

    Comment


    • #3
      The most critical consideration is the primary diameter. For what you're describing, you need at least 1-3/4" primaries. Put a power adder on it, and look for stepped primaries, 1-3/4->1-7/8". I think Kooks make the latter.

      Long tubes are not a guarantee of more power. It depends what the power band of the engine is. I've seen dyno tests at the 800+HP level, where the AS&M 1-3/4" mid-lengths made 50HP more than a set of 1-3/4" Hooker SuperComp long tubes. Changed the cam, bumped it up over 900HP, and the Hookers made better power (I immediately grabbed the AS&M's for $175 ). Those tests were on a 383 running 20+# of Voretch boost, on a "mostly track" setup that spent most of its time in the 5,000-8,000rpm range.

      I know the AS&M mid's make good power. I don't know much about the MAC's, either the primary diameter or how much power they will support.

      With regard to materials of construction, start with the assumption that you will be getting them cera-metallic coated. That reduces corrosion, reduces thermal stress cracking of the welds, reduces underhood temperatures, and picks up a few HP because the coating keeps the heat in the gasses, and the increased velocity in the primaries improves scavenging. Going to S/S will keep them looking better longer than mild steel (although they will discolor), but S/S will not contribute anything toward reducing underhood temps, or improving scavenging.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

      Comment


      • #4
        I drive alot of miles so I did not ceramic coat my latest set of headers.

        Ceramic coating works very well at improving performance and prolonging good looks. I've used them in the past with great success.

        Even the best ceramic coating peel after time.

        From my experiences you are better off buying the headers and then having them coated. It costs more to do it this way but I think they do a better job at cleaning the headers and applying the coating on an individual basis.

        My ride is here: http://www.cardomain.com/id/1995RAMAIR

        Comment


        • #5
          well i am going with ceramics no matter what. I just dont know what header to go with. If am going to eventully do a stroker and heads and cam set whats the best route? What about if i am just going to stay the way i am and just want headers? Is there a difference? Such a hard decision.
          1995 LT1 bird
          10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
          275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

          2005 Dode SRT-4
          agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
          6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

          Comment


          • #6
            My AS&M's are almost 9 years old. I am the second owner. They are just starting to rust around the flanges, and a few other places. Even where the original owner drilled a hole and welded an EGT bung, AFTER the headers were coated, there is only a little rust. These things have been on high HP power adder engines all their life.

            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

            Comment

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