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  • #1

    ABS Inop

    Ok I have a strange issue with my ABS system and I've read most of the posts about the ABS Inop light and seems to match.

    If I go hard on the gas my ABS inop light comes on (Non-traction control). If I stop the car and turn it off then back on again the light goes out and stays out until I go hard on the gas again. I checked all the electrical connections to the sensors and back to where they terminate on the control valve, they all appear ok.

    I tested the brakes to see if the ABS system was working and it seems to be ok, although I wasn't going very fast, maybe 20-25mph. I did slam on the brakes hard and they did not lock.

    The only time the light comes on is when I go hard on the gas. Very weird, I'm hoping it's not a wheel bearing going bad, that seems to be the only thing that would explain it but the hubs seem tight. Or maybe an alignment issue could cause it? It's been a little while since I've had an alignment but it doesn't seem to be off and tires are wearing even.
    Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Check the sensor on top of the rear axle assembly for metal particle buildup.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

    Comment

    • #3
      how much do those sensors cost to replace? mine has been going on for a while. also my E brake light is on all the time along with the low coolant light. and the brake is not engaged, and my coolant is fine. the low coolant sensor is like 54 dollars. can i just yank it out?no intention of jacking the thread just need a single response didnt want to add another post.
      1995 LT1 bird
      10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
      275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

      2005 Dode SRT-4
      agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
      6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

      Comment

      • #4
        From what I've read the front ABS sensors can't be replaced. You have to replace the entire front hub assembly. Not a cheap proposition even if you do it yourself.

        I think I might be a little concerned if the e-brake light was on, you're sure the brakes are ok?

        Try pulling out the low coolant sensor and cleaning it. If that doesn't work and you don't want to replace it, just leave it disconnected and the light will go out from what I understand.

        Check the sensor on top of the rear axle assembly for metal particle buildup.
        Thanks, I'll try that.
        Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

        Comment

        • #5
          The "BRAKE" light is not just for the E-brake. It also can indicate that there is a pressure imbalance between the front and rear sections of the braking system. This can indicate air in the lines, inadequate fluid in the lines, leaking components, etc. You need to get it checked immediately. You are risking your life and the lives of others by driving with a possibly defective braking system. Why do you think they put a warning light there?

          Is all explained in the Owner's Manual.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

          Comment

          • #6
            well if it is just air in the lines what can i do to get it out? is there things i can do to try to check it myself to save costly repair shop bills?
            1995 LT1 bird
            10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
            275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

            2005 Dode SRT-4
            agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
            6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

            Comment

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