and BTW, I have a set of comp 978 valve springs. I had 986 springs and decided to go with a bigger cam, and the 986's wouldn't work, so I got the 978's. They're good to .600 lift I've been told, but not many people use them. You just need to get a certain set of locator seats.
It's a dual coil spring, I've had it for about 2.5 years at least. I paid $135 for the springs. If you want 'em you can have them for $60 shipped.
I would really recommend upgrading the springs. I've heard some people giving the 918's a bad rap, but I have them and they've done me well, as they have a ton of others. I would go with them if you wanna spend some money.
Then you may not want to do the valve springs just yet. If I were you I wouldn't even do the RR's yet.
Put that money into some headers. Then do the RR's and springs.
You don't want to try getting to spark plug holes without headers. Do headers, then valve springs and rockers later. Better yet, do them all at once. Take the stock manifolds off, do the valve springs, then put headers, new plugs and wires, and rockers
My Tech Page has a complete guide for changing the valve springs on the car and without using compressed air. It's not really needed if you bring the cylinder to TDC.
As Rob said, just always remember to move the crank to get TDC on the particular cylinder you're doing. I was all the way down to my last cylinder, and I forgot to move it to TDC...needless to say, I luckily caught the valve, and had to stretch and kick, to reach for the vice grips...to prevent it from falling in. That would have been very very bad
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
Better yet, do them all at once. Take the stock manifolds off, do the valve springs, then put headers, new plugs and wires, and rockers
I wish my bank account would let me do that but right now I'm afraid not...
Sounds like it's not too bad a job but I'll have to read through Shoebox's writeup a few times to get some courage. There's also a guy here at work who I can probably get to give me a hand when I do decide to tackle it.
One last question. Is a retune necessary after the rocker/spring switch?
I was planning on getting a tune once I had done headers and catback but should I plan on doing that after the rockers and then adjusting it for headers?
A retune would be a very good idea, as you would be changing the valve lift and duration with the new rocker arm ratio. Plus its another excuse to pick up another mod and...as Tim Allen would say..."MORE POWER!!!" lol
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