I have a '96 T/A (RA WS6 A4...basically stock) and will need to replace my air filter soon. Does replacing my plain old paper filter with a K&N filter make enough of a difference (performance wise) to warrant paying the extra money for the K&N over the oem style? If not, is there another brand that works in the stock RA airbox that would be worth paying more money for?
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K&N air filter worth the $$$?
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Every little bit counts. Plus the fact that the K&N filter lasts a lot longer means it will pay for itself in a matter of months.Steve
79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever
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No.... they are warranted against manufacturing defects for 1,000,000 miles, and that assumes that you clean them every 30,000-50,000 miles. They will only stand up to 20-25 cleanings. They actually filter better when they are slightly "dirty". I run one in my Ram Air airbox.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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I wish that more people knew about that "slightly dirty" part. They think I'm crazy when I tell them they don't need to be cleaning their K&N every 10,000 miles or so just because it has a little bit of brown to it. One of the techs at work looked at mine a couple of weeks ago and kept on harping about it needing to be cleaned. I told him that if he read the instructions or did any internet searches about K&N, he would learn why I don't clean mine more often. I've had the car for about 55k miles and I've cleaned it once, because the previous owner had just cleaned it before I bought it. I do take it out every 10k or so and tap out the bugs and large things stuck on it (WS6 car)."No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"
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I agree...but my filter is black! LOL! Gotta clean now...it's been awhile.Originally posted by sneitzelYa, the Slightly Dirty thing just doesn't compute with most people.
Anyone have a California Dash Duster? They are made of the same red dust mop material that janitors in elementary school used to use. Another thing that works better the dirtier it gets.
Got the Duster also...works wonders after a drive.
Christopher Teng
1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune
Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K
F-Body Dirty Dozen
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You don't understand how the fabric filters work. They are intended to have a light coating of dust adhere to the oil. The K&N will continue to filter efficiently, with minimal pressure loss until the thickness of the dirt layer reaches the thickness of the wire that supports the fabric. Paper air cleaners are very efficient at capturing dirt, but cause pressure drop and lose HP. Most of us bought the cars because we like high HP and high performance. Why put a cork in the air intake track and lose some of the HP the engine it capable of? Spend $60 on a K&N and never change it again, or spend $6 on a paper element and change it 10 times..... cost is the same, and you've gained free HP.
Makes sense to me.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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