suspension guide./help

[DetroitLT1]

If i want a street/strip car making around 450whp N/A and 650whp on the bottle. I want to build the suspension first. I dont want to tub or go anything too extreme as i want to be able to drive it on the street. Oviously subframe connectors. I am a nub at sus. I know if i want to make that much power i should go adjustable. So panhard bar, subframe, lower control arms, what springs, what shocks, LCA relcocation? I do not want to lower the car. Torque arm. I want to be able to drive the car straight down the track, and maybe do a little autox. Thats a maybe i know you cant have your cake and eat it to. Any responses would be appreciated.

[Injuneer]

I've pretty much done what you are looking to do - at least with regard to straight line. My M6 setup made 425rwHP on motor and 670rwHP on the spray. I had the spray set up in two stages, 125HP + 150HP, but even doing that it was pretty much useless on the street. My 315/35 BFG Drag Radials won't hook on the street, on straight motor with the current high stall TH400 and 4.10 gears.

Check out the "mods list" link in my signature and scroll down to the suspension section to see what works for straight line traction. Wouldn't be a very good setup for Auto-X, and I thought most Auto-X sanctioned events were fairly limited on allowing suspension and engine modifications, anyway. Don't know much about it though.

[DetroitLT1]

when i said autox i meant like my local road course.

[DetroitLT1]

injuneer, how does your solid roller do on the street? can you cruise your car around easly? opinions on solid roller vs hydralic

[Injuneer]

My car was a daily driver for two years. No problems at all with the solid roller. No problems with valve adjustments either. Checked it every 6 months or so when the car was street driven. How well the solid roller lives as a daily driver will depend a lot on the lifter selection. The Crower cut-aways have been extremely reliable.

I wouldn't normally recommend a solid roller for a cam as mild as mine is (230/242 114 LSA 0.590/0.590). A hydraulic cam would have handled the engine, which needs to be shifted in the mid 6,000's. But with the nitrous, we wanted to use the 5,000-7,000rpm range to spray, so its set up with a 7,000rpm cut on nitrous and a 7,200rpm rev limiter. That's why we opted for the solid roller. I suspect we picked up a bit of area under the curve with the more aggressive ramps on the lobes.