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High clamp LT1 pressure plate...True or BS?

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  • High clamp LT1 pressure plate...True or BS?

    For quite some time it has been my understanding that the Valeo LTx pressure plate can NOT be made stronger, this is due to the diaphragm spring and overall design. It has also been my understanding that the only way to make higher performance LTx clutches is to use better clutch linings on the clutch disk itself. I know that many people on the board share this understanding.

    I decided to call Spec clutch and Clutchnet.com to ask them about their Ltx pressure plates.

    Spec informed me that their LTx pressure plates are high clamp and not the same spec as the conventional Valeo. They insisted that they are stronger. Every Spec PP I have seen looked like a conventional Valeo with Blue paint.

    Clutchnet.com informed me that their LTx pressure plate has the Valeo diaphragm spring heat treated and the fingers tweaked to provide more clamping power. They told me that their red LTx PP had a force rating of 3220 pounds and would cost $450.00. I am not sure what a stock Valeo measures.

    My Local clutch maker stated that the Valeo PP can not be made stronger and was calling BS on the above statements. He said that there was no way to tweak the diaphragm spring or relocate the lever fulcrums like normal pressure plates.

    As of now I am still convinced that Spec, Mcleod, Centerforce, Ram, Zoom, Maddog, and everbody else uses the exact same non-upgradeable pressure plate. I base this on internet research but I will confess I have not seen all of the above PP's.

    Does anyone have any irrefutable knowledge that the after market clutch manufacturers are able to make the Valeo pressure plate stronger than OEM spec?

    Thanks.
    1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
    Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
    Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

  • #2
    I know that the SPEC PP's are hard as hell. Went through 2 of their clutches in less than 6 months. I dont recommend it. If your pushing some serious power your better off with a Twin disk clutch like a Tex.
    Eddie
    2000 M6 Trans Am
    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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    • #3
      Keep in mind you replaced everything when you put in the LS7 clutch kit. I would be interested in finding out what would have happened if you put the LS7 kit in and left the stock flywheel in place.
      97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

      01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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