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  • Brownish/Blackish Brake Fluid

    As the title says, I think I may need to flush out/bleed my brakes. After reading other threads about this, can I just do the two man system myself when it comes to bleeding the brakes? Like get out, pump the pedal, and release the thing near the caliper. Speaking of which, what am I looking for to release the fluid on the brakes? Lastly, is there a fluid I can use to flush out the system? There is like a black layer of gunk laying on the bottom of the resovior. Thanks!!!

    2002 Firehawk Sold

  • #2
    You need to follow the procedure in the manual or you will end up with air in the lines and a malfunctioning ABS system. Do a search for it.


    99 Silver Z28 A4, T tops, ZR-1 wheels (SOLD)

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    • #3
      Update: I took some of the fluid out with a turkey baster from the resevior. It is JET BLACK with tiny particles floating around. Ya i think this needs flushed out!

      2002 Firehawk Sold

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      • #4
        Good write up here:

        Brake maintenance


        99 Silver Z28 A4, T tops, ZR-1 wheels (SOLD)

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        • #5
          Thanks Bob, that sounds like what I will do this weekend.
          I Appreciate the help!

          2002 Firehawk Sold

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          • #6
            Yeah Flush it out. JUst have have a buddy pump the peddle and you open the bleeder. Its very very simple. When I did mine All the fluid that came out was Green. ha ha ha ha.
            Eddie
            2000 M6 Trans Am
            Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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            • #7
              Gravity bleeding is the best way to bleed the system. Ask any high performance brake company.

              My ride is here: http://www.cardomain.com/id/1995RAMAIR

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              • #8
                Originally posted by ToplessFormula
                Gravity bleeding is the best way to bleed the system. Ask any high performance brake company.
                Care to elaborate on gravity bleeding?

                2002 Firehawk Sold

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                • #9
                  I think what he means by that is simply open the res. and open the bleeders. Then let it drain out. It will slowly but from my 10+ years of working on cars, not to many people do this do to that the bubbles can get lodged in a crevis in the system and not go out. I recommend just going old fashion. Pump, pump, pump, and hold then just open one of the bleeders and close.
                  Eddie
                  2000 M6 Trans Am
                  Tune+exhaust=344WHP

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                  • #10
                    A couple of other options here. You can buy the one way bleeder valves from the parts store and put them on your calipers. Then you just break them loose, attach hoses to a bucket, and pump to your hearts content, making sure the reservoir doesn't go dry. This pumps out the old fluid and the one way valves do not allow air to go in when you let off the pedal. It makes it suck fluid from the reservoir.

                    Secondly, you can buy one of those handheld pumps for like $20 or $30 and hand pump them out at each caliper.

                    The option I took was to have a shop do it. At my dealership, we have a machine that attaches to all four calipers at the same time. As it's sucking the old fluid out, it pumps new fluid into the reservoir. It will use an entire quart of fluid to make sure it gets everything out and replaced. I've had this done to my Firebird and my Astro and it makes a world of difference. It retails at about $100 and takes about 20 minutes or so to complete.
                    "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ConElite
                      I think what he means by that is simply open the res. and open the bleeders. Then let it drain out. It will slowly but from my 10+ years of working on cars, not to many people do this do to that the bubbles can get lodged in a crevis in the system and not go out. I recommend just going old fashion. Pump, pump, pump, and hold then just open one of the bleeders and close.

                      Exactly.

                      Gravity bleeding is opening the bleeders and allowing the fluid to carry the air out with the old fluid. You just have to keep the master cylinder full.

                      You can recommend using the old fashion way all that you want. It's not as effective though.

                      Not many people do this because that aren't aware that it's better than pump bleeding the brakes.

                      The pumping method can also lead to master cylinder problems. You will be pushing to master cylinder piston farther into the bore than it normally does. As the bore wears it will develop a ridge at the end of the normal travel range. When you perform the pump and bleed method this can lead to master cylinder damage. It's not common, but isn't unusual either.

                      I know for a fact that SSBC recommends gravity bleeding. Like I stated before, ask any performance brake manufacturer. They'll tell you exactly the same thing.

                      Here's some links that I found:

                      http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/grav...kes-81243.html

                      http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...he-brakes.html

                      http://books.google.com/books?id=qHH...S5s4#PPA147,M1

                      http://www.tsmmfg.com/Troubleshooting.htm

                      My ride is here: http://www.cardomain.com/id/1995RAMAIR

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for all the help guys, where are the bleeders located for the gravity method?

                        2002 Firehawk Sold

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by '94 White Devil
                          Thanks for all the help guys, where are the bleeders located for the gravity method?
                          You just use the normal brake bleeders on the calipers and wheel cylinders (for drum brakes).

                          My ride is here: http://www.cardomain.com/id/1995RAMAIR

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