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  • Lubricants

    Hello all,
    Just had a few questions about lubricants.

    1) I am currently using Castrol Syntec 5W-30 full synthetic in my 02 SS M6. Just wondering if there is anything more appropriate out there, and what everybody else is running.

    2) If full synthetic is good to go, am I able to extend my usual 3000 mile oil change interval that I used with conventional oil? I heard somewhere that synthetic could go 4000. I don't drive my SS hard other than the (very) occasional drive on deserted roads.

    3) I have about 9000 miles on the car and am thinking about changing the fluid in the M6. I read a post regarding the hot fluid to use (full synthetic ATF) but it also mentioned an attitive of some type which I can't remember.

    Thanks to everyone in advance. These are great cars and the common interest we all enjoy is a wonderful thing (especially when the hapless ricer or Stang pulls up...)

  • #2
    I only know of one oil. LOL Mobil 1 full synthetic. Why mess with the rest when you can go with the best. I use Mobil 1 filters too. They have the best filter. I use an M-302 even though it is not what is speced for the LT1. It's a bigger version of the stock filter. I "know nothing" about the LS1 motor but I would use Mobil 1. I know a guy who uses it in his lawn mower. LOL Of coarse he changes the oil in it as much as his car. Oh I change the oil twice a year which is about 3k-4k miles.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      oil?

      I have to agree with Jeff, why waste your money on castrol when you could use the best for almost the same price. Mobil one is a little more expensive than the average oil its like $4.25 a quart. but its well worth the price. I have used mobil one in every car that i have ever owned.

      99 T/A WS-6
      SLP strut tower brace, SLP sub-frame connectors, SLP intake, SLP Loudmouth exhaust, shift kit, SLP suspension system, SLP y-pipe
      2004 Mineral Gray Mustang Mach1 (stock, but ordering the SLP Loudmouth)
      88 IROC-Z, ZZ430 CRATE MOTOR, Flowmaster exhaust, MOSER 12-bolt with gears, and a few other mods.

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      • #4
        The only additive i've ever used in both my oil and trans (my 94 jeep with 174,000 miles) is prolong. I honestly don't know if it helps or not though. I have also heard that Lucas additives are good. Still I wouldn't take my word for it; I'm sure some one else here would probably know a lot more than me.
        SOLD: 91 Firebird, 350 .030 over, flat top pistons, done up 305 (14022801) heads, performer rpm airgap intake, 292/292 .501/.501 cam, holley 4150 (800cfm) carb, Th400 trans, Gm 10 bolt posi rear end. Currently running 14.6 at 93 mph. Now driving a 04 Mitsu Lancer, slower but at 1.87 per gallon for gas; much cheaper to run

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        • #5
          I wouldn't put any additives into my oil. Stuff like prolong and Z-max haven't showed any real benefits on the tests I've read. They tend to leave out info on their advertisements. Like Z-max....it actually increases friction. The stuff is actually colored mineral water.

          Most people here use Mobil 1, but Castrol Syntec is good too. I've read up on some motor oil boards and they're both respected. It's not a stretch to go 5-6k on synthetic oil.
          Joe K.
          '11 BMW 328i
          '10 Matrix S AWD
          Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

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          • #6
            A properly maintained engine does not need aftermarket oil additives of any kind. Some additives can actually contain harmful components. There is absolutely NO reason to use them.

            Modern oils are excellent... some are better than others. If you use a qualtiy oil that meets the SAE requirement for your engine, and change it at the proper interval, along with the filter, you will not have any problems.

            Some comments on Prolong:

            ProLong challenged by Consumer Reports, lose to FTC.

            The manufacturers of the ProLong engine additive have been dealt a smack in the face by a Consumer Reports Magazine report into their product. CR attempted to reproduce the "no oil" test where all the oil was drained out of an engine which had been treated with ProLong, and then the engine was run. CR managed a maximum of 13 seconds running out of each of two engine before they seized up, welding the pistons to the barrels. The case is being brought to a Federal Commision for prosecution for false advertising claims. You can subscribe to the online version of Consumer Reports here for a minimal fee, and read all about it in their October 1998 features.
            Source: Consumer Reports, October 1998.
            Interesting snipets on oil additives

            If you change your oil frequently, "conventional" oil is fine. If you push your car hard, and want extended intervals, or just want to use "the best" in your engine, consider a synthetic. Synthetics offer the advantages of more stable viscosity over an extended period of time/miles, and the ability to withstand higher temperatures without breaking down. Because they are "designer molecules" that achieve wide range multiple viscosity ratings "naturally", they do not require huge amounts of "viscosity improver" additives like conventional oil. Instead, they are able to focus on additives that help keep the engine clean.

            My personal preference with the stock engine was Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic, with an AC/Delco PF35L (later UPF1218, since cancelled) synthetic media filter. My oil change interval was 3,750 miles. When the engine was torn down at about 65,000 miles for the stroker buildup, it was virtually like new..... no deposits of any kind related to oil, all part shiney and new, all bearing and clearances in excellent condition... not bad for an engine that was occasionally treated to a 150-shot of nitrous over its lifetime.

            I have seen some interesting thread on the LT1 Tech board on CamaroZ28.com, from an individual named "Patman". He has done extensive research into oils, inculding numerous used oil analysis, and has found that the viscosity corresponding to the "30" in the Mobil 1 products is generally very low for a 30-weight oil. He has found other products labled "30" that appear to more closely meet the definition of 30-weight viscosity. Just remember.... GM installs Mobil 1 at the factory in the Corvette engines.

            I would also reommend that you simply follow the GM recommendations on the T56 lubrication. My T56 was in decent condition when I sold it at about 70K miles, but did need a bearing replaced. A "spare" T56 that I had taken out of a 13K mile 97 SS and was in good condition with the factory lubricant was loaned to someone who decided to use the much touted Honda ATF... when it weas returned to me only a few weeks later, it was making horrible noises.

            I'm not aware of any "additives" for the T56. When you change the lubricant in the rear axle, you will need to use the GM limited slip additive.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              There you have it. I know someone would know a lot more than I do. Like I said I really didn't know if they help or not. I stopped using prolong on my jeep about a year ago and started doing oil changes every 2000 miles. Though I have heard many people say that thats too soon; my oil is already dirty so I change it. I also have been told that if you switch to synthetic it's bad for the engine to go back to normal oil. So I have never used synthetic (costs too much). Does anyone know if ether of the things told to me are true? I would certianly stop doing oil changes so frequently if it's bad for my engine, and if I could go between synthetic and regular oil I may use synthetic occasionally.
              SOLD: 91 Firebird, 350 .030 over, flat top pistons, done up 305 (14022801) heads, performer rpm airgap intake, 292/292 .501/.501 cam, holley 4150 (800cfm) carb, Th400 trans, Gm 10 bolt posi rear end. Currently running 14.6 at 93 mph. Now driving a 04 Mitsu Lancer, slower but at 1.87 per gallon for gas; much cheaper to run

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              • #8
                There isn't any problem switching from one to the other. In fact it's really a myth.

                That said, some people experience leaks when they switch to synthetic. It's not that the synthetic causes leaks, the problem was there before, but the synthetic with it's make-up will flow into these leaks where as the regular will not.

                Also you can't judge the condition of your oil by how dirty it looks. Wolfman had access to some studies, if I remember correctly, showing that longer oil change intervals can be done without harm. Based on the info I've read, I've changed my synthetic oil change interval to between 4500 and 5000 miles. I have 108k on my car now and it's running great.
                Joe K.
                '11 BMW 328i
                '10 Matrix S AWD
                Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

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                • #9
                  mobil 1

                  I have a 145000 on mine and I have always used mobil one as did the original owner. her husband works for GM and he owns a bad butt corvette. I hated paying the higher price for it but the motor still runs strong and I have no plans on getting cheap with a car like this. I'll save that for my 83 mustang convertible. LOL

                  Jason

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