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  • Random miss at idle....

    It's always something new..lol. I have had this problem for a while and was hoping it would go away. When my '95 z28 is warmed up and at idle it will have a random miss. Now its not a huge one or a full miss, But its there. the car seems to only do this when it is warmed up and at idle.
    Also i have noticed when it rains or i go through a car wash i will tend to have a full blown miss. But that will clear up with in about 3-5 min of driving.

  • #2
    Sound like an optispark to me. When mine first starting to act up it only did it went the car was hot. Actually I think it was more the cap and rotor that was my problem. The opti seems to be fine, I have it sitting on a shelf in my garage for a rainy day. Maybe the cap is cracked and that's why you notice it when the car is in a moisture filled environment.
    Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

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    • #3
      Check for corrosion on the plug wire and coil wire terminals. Look for corrosion on the Opti harness connectors. Look for places where moisture can enter the ignition components and wiring.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        I've seen the problem before. What I would do is purchase a tube of dielectric grease. one by one, pull off each spark plug wire boot and with a q-tip, coat the inside of the boot with the dielectric grease and re-install. It will seal out any moisture contamination from the outside, keep the plug boots supple and prevent misfire arcing due to moisture contamination. Be sure to do both ends of the plug wires..... at the plugs and at the distributer. The problem should go away.
        As Fred mentioned, also check the opti harness connections. Those are weather pack connections which should seal out the elements, but ya never know. A little dielectric grease on the seals wouldn't hurt one bit.

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        • #5
          I think the problem with the Opti harness connector is caused by ozone venting from a dried out seal in the tower on the body of the Opti. Many people report finding a huge mass of blue corrosion on the connector. At first I assumed it was copper sulfate, formed from a battery that was venting excessive gasses, but the more cases I hear about, the more I think the Opti is causing the corrosion problem.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Injuneer
            I think the problem with the Opti harness connector is caused by ozone venting from a dried out seal in the tower on the body of the Opti. Many people report finding a huge mass of blue corrosion on the connector. At first I assumed it was copper sulfate, formed from a battery that was venting excessive gasses, but the more cases I hear about, the more I think the Opti is causing the corrosion problem.
            I had that with mine and the OPTI and harness were only 6 months old. It really NEEDS silicone dielectric greese on that connection.
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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            • #7
              Thank you all... i feel like i should mention that i had the opti replaced no more than 8 months ago. Do yall really think its a opti/plug-wire progam?

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              • #8
                Put the car into a very dark area with the hood open, start the car and see if you can observe any blue glow around any of the wires and plugs. If you see any, time for dielectric grease.... or maybe removal of the metal boot covers.

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                • #9
                  Alright i'll do that tonight in my garage...

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                  • #10
                    Your Opti may have been replaced (would have been good to know that up front), but when you replaced it, did you replace the harness section? Did you inspect the connectors both ends of the harness?

                    Its so simple to check, I'm not sure why you're resisting. But, its your car.
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                    • #11
                      Actually my buuddy owned the car befor me and he had it replaced.. And im quite sure why you would say that i am resisting. I just think its better to have too much advice than not enough, and i know that yalls knowledge exceeds mine. I really apreciate all of yalls help

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