Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

LT1 Engine removal

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • LT1 Engine removal

    Hey guys,

    I just bought my 96 Trans Am about a month ago, and I now have a major engine problem (this really sucks...). The original problem was that the car overheated, but after not being able to figure it out, I took it to a dealer. They then told me, after a few days of trying to figure it out, that there was a good amount hydrocarbons in my engine coolant. Whether it is a bad head gasket, cracked head, or block (god I hope not), I'm not sure yet. I'm getting it towed to my friends house who is going to help me fix the problem. I'm not exactly sure how we are going to do this, but there is a good chance of having to take the engine out. I realize that these engine are technically suppose to come out the bottom, but they are able to be pulled out the top also, correct? We're not going to have access to a lift since we are working in his home garage, so we're really not going to have a choice. Could you give me some advice on how to do this? Thanks guys!
    1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
    Mods:
    "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
    Pro 5.0 Shifter
    Crane 1.5rrs
    Comp high tech pushrods
    Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
    SLP Loudmouth II
    SLP Cold air intake
    PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
    UMI adjustable panhard
    UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

  • #2
    Do you want to verify that it is a blown head gasket, creacked head or block first? I can give you a sure fire method of doing that but I'm not going to type it if you are not.

    Nevermind. I found what I had typed before with a search. Here is how to test it.

    NAPA sells a kit for $50 that can detect carbon monoxide in the radiator fluid for detecting a head gasket leak or cracked head. It comes with a bottle with a rubber stopper on it and a fluid that you put in the bottle. When cold you take the radiator cap off put some of the liquid in the bottle. Stick the bottle where the radiator cap goes and fire it up. If the fluid changes colors you have a leak.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

    Comment


    • #3
      Okay. Thanks!

      If it is a cracked head, we are debating finding a cheap LS1 to drop in. I would almost rather spend my money (which is very limited right now...) on something with less miles on it than spend close to a thousand for a new set of heads to put on a motor with over 100,000 miles on it. Whether or not I can afford to do the LS1 swap, I'm not sure. I guess we'll decide what we are going to do once we find what the problem is.

      I just hope we are going to be able to pull the motor if we have to.
      1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
      Mods:
      "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
      Pro 5.0 Shifter
      Crane 1.5rrs
      Comp high tech pushrods
      Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
      SLP Loudmouth II
      SLP Cold air intake
      PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
      UMI adjustable panhard
      UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

      Comment


      • #4
        JUst do a rebuild. If the heads are cracked you can find some bare heads for very little. Junk yard. Do a rebuild kit and your set. An LS1 swap would cost a lot of money.
        Eddie
        2000 M6 Trans Am
        Tune+exhaust=344WHP

        Comment


        • #5
          If you do want to do an LS1 swap, then you will have to take the k-member out to swap it. LT1 and LS1 k-members are not the same.
          You also do not need a lift to take it out the bottom. I did mine by myself with just a floor jack in my driveway.
          Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Also the LS1 has a different transmission flange pattern than the LT1 so swapping to the LS1 would mean you would have to swap the transmission too.
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

            Comment


            • #7
              Alright, so I guess the LS1 swap idea is kind of out of the question. I'm assuming if all goes well, we won't have to pull the motor out of the car, and can just take the intake and heads off with the engine in. I'm going to see about doing a rebuild, but unless it is necessary, it might be out of the question. My friend who is helping me has extremely bad arthritis (yes he is WAY older than me), and I'm not sure if he is going to be up to the rebuild. We'll see how things go. The car should be towed to his garage Saturday, and we might start this weekend. I'll keep you guys up to date on the progress. Thanks everyone!
              1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
              Mods:
              "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
              Pro 5.0 Shifter
              Crane 1.5rrs
              Comp high tech pushrods
              Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
              SLP Loudmouth II
              SLP Cold air intake
              PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
              UMI adjustable panhard
              UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

              Comment


              • #8
                you can pull the motor out of the top of the engine bay. i've done it on l98 cars, lt1 cars, and even ls1 cars. we pulled an ls1 out of a 99 ss camaro without even taking the hood off.
                87 GTA: it's winter time, all tore apart

                ConElite: "Im 22, have had my TA since I was 21."

                "I wont lie, I have a heavy foot, but at the same time I know when its the safest to ring out a gear or 2."

                Comment


                • #9
                  How many miles on the motor?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Opinions vary on whether it is easier to pull an engine from the top or the bottom of a 4th Gen Fbody. I chose to pull mine from the bottom. I think it was easier and I could keep the motor completely in tact. When I reinstalled the motor, I had the headers mounted, blower installed and all the peripherals attached ahead of time.

                    Now, I'd make sure that it isn't just a head gasket. That is an easy fix compared to pulling a motor. An LS1 swap adds quite a bit more work and time, not to mention money and headaches.
                    LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Performin Norman

                      Now, I'd make sure that it isn't just a head gasket.
                      My sentiments exactly. Most times it is just a simple head gasket. LT-1s are notorious for losing fire ring integrity around the cylinders on the ends of each bank. That would be the #1 and #2 plus #7 and #8. It rarely seems to happen on the middle cylinders.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The motor has just a hair over 100,000 miles, so it definitly wouldn't hurt to do a rebuild. We are definitly not pulling the motor right away. We're going to take the intake and heads off and go from there. Might give me a chance to put a nice set of rockers on there if the repair isn't expensive
                        1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
                        Mods:
                        "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
                        Pro 5.0 Shifter
                        Crane 1.5rrs
                        Comp high tech pushrods
                        Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
                        SLP Loudmouth II
                        SLP Cold air intake
                        PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
                        UMI adjustable panhard
                        UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X