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  • CAM SHAFT

    Just wanted to get a few thoughts on what is the best cam shaft for the money right now. I have a 95' z28, 6spd...mildly modded: 52 mm Holley, cold air intake, heads have been re-worked 2.00-intake 1.55-exhaust, msd distributor and wires, 4.10 gears, underdrive pulleys, hypertech, and will buy a new set of valve springs and 1.6 rockers when I purchase my cam. I'm wanting something that is going to be lumpy, but still allows for a reliable daily driver.


    Also, what is a good. stock oem replacement flywheel?

  • #2
    i know alot more bout cams in an LS1, but Id say anything with a high 22X to a low 23X duration, and anything over about a .575 lift and something with a 111 - 113LSA will give you alot of power and a nnnnnnice little lump.... Heer's my 233/239 .598/.603 on a 112 LSA..... http://videos.streetfire.net/video/5...be0144514a.htm
    [COLOR=Navy]2000 Navy Blue Trans Am, T Tops, Automatic, Ram Air, Slp 85mm Mas, Air Lid, Smooth bellow, Hooker 1.75 Lt's, ORY, LM1, Air/EGR delete, Throttle body coolant bypass. Msd super conductor wires. TSP cam, ss3600, svo 38LB injectors.
    Ported fast 92 mm intake and 92 mm TB on order.
    11.539 @ 118.82 1.649 60 foot.

    1969 z28 - 9.957 @ 133.92 1.425 60 foot.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm jealous...my car sounds like a ricer compared to yours! haha nice car dude
      1996 Trans Am M6 (T-Tops)
      Mods:
      "Race Ready" Rebuilt T56
      Pro 5.0 Shifter
      Crane 1.5rrs
      Comp high tech pushrods
      Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY
      SLP Loudmouth II
      SLP Cold air intake
      PCMforLess Tune + 160 thermostat
      UMI adjustable panhard
      UMI LCAs and relocation brackets

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Dragkid1917
        i know alot more bout cams in an LS1, but Id say anything with a high 22X to a low 23X duration, and anything over about a .575 lift and something with a 111 - 113LSA will give you alot of power and a nnnnnnice little lump.... Heer's my 233/239 .598/.603 on a 112 LSA..... http://videos.streetfire.net/video/5...be0144514a.htm
        thats the sound im after
        Eddie
        2000 M6 Trans Am
        Tune+exhaust=344WHP

        Comment


        • #5
          for anyone who wants that sound, not trying to advertize for texas speed. But its really very simple. Pick a specific cam, as part of one of there 2 packages (spring kit differes between the two, anything over a .600 lift will require the bigger package) Ported oil pump, Dual timing chain, Arp Crank bolt, and the cam shaft swap package (consists of nessasary gaskets and whatnot) Its like.... 1100 total, and thats everything you need. You however may need bigger injectors witch is another 400... but.... its 1100 to have that sound and power 100% safley.
          [COLOR=Navy]2000 Navy Blue Trans Am, T Tops, Automatic, Ram Air, Slp 85mm Mas, Air Lid, Smooth bellow, Hooker 1.75 Lt's, ORY, LM1, Air/EGR delete, Throttle body coolant bypass. Msd super conductor wires. TSP cam, ss3600, svo 38LB injectors.
          Ported fast 92 mm intake and 92 mm TB on order.
          11.539 @ 118.82 1.649 60 foot.

          1969 z28 - 9.957 @ 133.92 1.425 60 foot.

          Comment


          • #6
            Are you sure that's an LT1 package? To run a true double roller timing chain on an LT1, you have to convert to an electric water pump. And I've seen people use a stock oil pump (albeit blueprinted, with the 80psi spring) on LT1's producing as much at 1,125HP. I run a stock pump and pan with my 800HP nitrous stroker.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

            Comment


            • #7
              it was an LS1 combonation. I just everyone who replied beond the first guy with an Lt1 looked to have an ls1 or maybe i just went off on a tangent.
              [COLOR=Navy]2000 Navy Blue Trans Am, T Tops, Automatic, Ram Air, Slp 85mm Mas, Air Lid, Smooth bellow, Hooker 1.75 Lt's, ORY, LM1, Air/EGR delete, Throttle body coolant bypass. Msd super conductor wires. TSP cam, ss3600, svo 38LB injectors.
              Ported fast 92 mm intake and 92 mm TB on order.
              11.539 @ 118.82 1.649 60 foot.

              1969 z28 - 9.957 @ 133.92 1.425 60 foot.

              Comment


              • #8
                LS1 and LT1 camshaft designs/requirements are significantly different.

                Wihtout knowing the specifics of his head work, its sort of hard to recommend a cam. And the definition of "streetable" differs widely. Seems like people want a radical, lumpy idle, then get concerned when they can't get the A/F ratio right at idle, and get surging under cruise conditions.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment


                • #9
                  i didnt know it was that different, but i guess now that i think about it the whole intake is different along with obviously the heads. I knew you couldnt fit an ls1 cam in an lt1 or something like that, someone just commented on the sound, and i thought they had an LS1 (conelite) so i told em what i did. But the surging thing was infact a problem untill I had cartek spend like 45 minuts tuning the idle.
                  [COLOR=Navy]2000 Navy Blue Trans Am, T Tops, Automatic, Ram Air, Slp 85mm Mas, Air Lid, Smooth bellow, Hooker 1.75 Lt's, ORY, LM1, Air/EGR delete, Throttle body coolant bypass. Msd super conductor wires. TSP cam, ss3600, svo 38LB injectors.
                  Ported fast 92 mm intake and 92 mm TB on order.
                  11.539 @ 118.82 1.649 60 foot.

                  1969 z28 - 9.957 @ 133.92 1.425 60 foot.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Dragkid1917
                    i didnt know it was that different, but i guess now that i think about it the whole intake is different along with obviously the heads. I knew you couldnt fit an ls1 cam in an lt1 or something like that, someone just commented on the sound, and i thought they had an LS1 (conelite) so i told em what i did. But the surging thing was infact a problem untill I had cartek spend like 45 minuts tuning the idle.
                    I was speaking about the LS1.

                    LSx and LTx engines are very different when it comes to the heads and manifold. As for the Bolt im not going to pretend I know so ill stay quiet and .
                    Eddie
                    2000 M6 Trans Am
                    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 95greengobblin
                      Just wanted to get a few thoughts on what is the best cam shaft for the money right now. I have a 95' z28, 6spd...mildly modded: 52 mm Holley, cold air intake, heads have been re-worked 2.00-intake 1.55-exhaust, msd distributor and wires, 4.10 gears, underdrive pulleys, hypertech, and will buy a new set of valve springs and 1.6 rockers when I purchase my cam. I'm wanting something that is going to be lumpy, but still allows for a reliable daily driver.


                      Also, what is a good. stock oem replacement flywheel?
                      i'd look for something in the 230 duration area, 112 lsa, and a powerband of 2000/2500-6000/6500. 112 lsa is about the best you can get with a "lumpy cam" and still pretty streetable. to get serious lump like most people want, you have to go down to the 110 lsa, which eats much more fuel, and is much harder to tune. you do get more power from the switch down to 110 lsa, just less "streetable"
                      87 GTA: it's winter time, all tore apart

                      ConElite: "Im 22, have had my TA since I was 21."

                      "I wont lie, I have a heavy foot, but at the same time I know when its the safest to ring out a gear or 2."

                      Comment

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