installing OPTICRAP

[RAF7789]

ok this is round three on my optispark(s). When trying to install the unit to the pin-drive mechanism, there is about 1/4" in between the bolt-holes on the opti, and the bolt-holes on the engine.....i don't think that is right. it looks like the pin is lined up and everything.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

It should sit all the way flat. Try giving it a little nudge inward (it might be hung on one of the o-rings). If it does not go, remove, check the drive position and retry.

[BrdWAtti2d]

Yea sounds like the pin isn't lined up, it's kind of tricky to get it right. A little trick when I did mine was this: eye ball the position close when the opti is off and put a mark with a sharpie on the rotor and the opti itself. That way when you install it just line up the marks and you'll be very close.

[Injuneer]

Make sure you have the dowel pin in the correct hole. Check the alignment guide on Shoebox's site.

[RAF7789]

got it in thanks. but bad news: no start, no spark.

[Injuneer]

Check for codes.

Make sure all the connectors you disconnected and reconnected are firmly seated, and the pins aren't bent or corroded. Make sure the inlet bellows is firmly attached to the throttle body, not torn and not bent under on the bottom.

[msfyter]

Man I remember the opticrap days.......One thing I did after the install was clean everything real good and then I sprayed a clear coat of spray paint over the opti to seal out water. Hey it worked didnt have any problems for over 40,000 miles. The secret is clean ,clean ,clean .

[RAF7789]

turns out the problem was the ICM and coil.

[BrdWAtti2d]

Well at least you know you have a good optispark now. Here's a cheap little mod that I read and did that made a lot of sense to me. Slip 4 or 5 washers behind the ICM on the mounting bolts. It puts some air space between the ICM and the head. Electronics + heat = fail. Glad to hear you got it worked out.

[RAF7789]

i am having the worst luck!@!!!!!@#!@@#%#$%

i haven't driven the car much since i've had it running. but today, i drove to the other end of town, parked the car and when i came back, there was a small puddle of the unmistakable orange coolant. i popped the hood and one of the radiator hoses had a small leak (the small hose with the steam-pipe/ bleed-valve). There was coolant all over the optispark harness.....so i am praying to God that no coolant got in....but it is very likely that some did. $#!T

[BrdWAtti2d]

Yup, that's the LT1 for ya. I chased oil leaks for months. Finally got them all buttoned up and then the cooling system starts popping leaks everywhere. Started replacing cooling system components and I would replace one then blow a leak somewhere else. Now that everything but the radiator has been replaced, it's developed a crack near the tranny cooler fitting. Hopefully one day I'll be able to drive the car without looking underneath for drips every time I get out.

[raroZ28]

I don't understand why people have such a hard time with opti's. Yeah, they don't last as long as a traditional distributor, but they're easy to replace (just a little time consuming having to pull the hub) and will last another 120k.

You don't even have to set the timing. I don't think a distributor replacement gets any easier.

Instead of blaming the LT1 and the opti design, maybe you should have a professional do it, because the engine isn't the problem.

[Injuneer]

You do not have to remove the crank hub to replace the Opti. Just the damper.

[raroZ28]

You do not have to remove the crank hub to replace the Opti. Just the damper.

That's what I meant.

[RAF7789]

When all else fails do it your DAMSELF! that is what i go by, because the majority of us with blue-collar jobs do not have the appropriate income to afford paying a mechanic $100/hour to diagnose a problem, then $50-70/hour to fix it.