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  • Tune up list

    With 114K miles it is time for some fresh parts. A drop in gas mileage and a increase in my ET at the track are the biggest reasons for this.
    Here is what I am planning on. Looking for your thoughts, additions, or subtractions.

    Cap & Rotor
    Wire set (probably 8.5mm)
    Plugs ( not sure which yet)
    Modified plug socket
    Ignition coil
    Wiring harness
    MAF (only the $70 one)
    Pulley- for a couple hp
    Serpentine Belt
    Water pump - current one is 4+ years old and something is leaking coolant at the front of the engine so I will know more when I get in there.

    Anything else while I'm in there? I Plan on getting most of the parts from WS6store.com and the rest at Auto Zone or something.

    Thanks for the input.

    Ryan
    96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

  • #2
    plugs either ngk or a/c delco i would recommend
    2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

    old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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    • #3
      I would do the whole opti if you mean to just rebuild the cap + rotor...and you have extra $$ to spend.

      NGKs are good as Trash man said, and the NGK Iridiums will last a lot longer than standard.

      You're not noticing any missing or high RPM stumble right? Simply the drop in mileage and slower track times are the only culprit?
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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      • #4
        What else is there to the optispark other than the cap and rotor. Also where do you buy it. I have searched for it online and only seem to find cap and rotor.
        96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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        • #5
          The Opti consists of two "halves". The rear half is the body of the Opti, that bolts to the front of the engine. It contains the optical wheel and sensor, the bearing/drive assembly and the harness connector tower. The optical sensor can break down electronically, the sensor can bget coated with rust, blinding it, the bearing can wear out causing wobble with erratic timing and putting the rotor off center, and the harness connector tower seal dries out and leaks.

          The front half is the cap and rotor. Electrical contacts burn, dielectric strength of the epoxy separating the thin wires that route the spark to the right side terminals can break down, carbon tracking, etc.

          For reliability, replace the entire unit, particularly when it has over 100K miles on it. I would strongly suggest using only the OEN AC/Delco (aka Delphi) replacement. The MSD unit looks promising, but still appears to have some problems. For the correct part number (yours is the 95-97 "vented" model), and a source, look at Shoebox's site:

          http://shbox.com/1/Parts.htm

          http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason

          Why are you replacing the wiring harness? Just check the connectors, and get new pigtails where reuired. Again, Shoebox has a list of the pigtail part #'s.

          If you are not getting a code for your MAF sensor, just clean the one you have.

          The U/D pulley is next to worthless.

          Consider spacing the IC Module away from the head. See Shoebox's site for a "how to".

          Are you also considering replacement of things like the PCV valve, filters, etc?

          How many miles on your O2 sensors? The two pre-cat sensors would be candidates for replacement. Use only the OEM AC/Delco parts.

          I personally did not like the AC/Delco OEM plugs. They seemed to have a tendancy to lose one or both of the little platinum pucks off the electrodes, producing a huge gap.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            Everything Fred said...

            To add:

            Your fuel filter should also be replaced. Hopefully, you're not still using the original
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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            • #7
              I appreciate the input. I will definitely replace the entire opti. I will also reconsider the the pulley if it doesn't do anything. Fuel filter was replaced 8 months ago so that is good. By not buying the unnecessary ignition coil or pulley I should have the cash to replace the old O2 sensors also.
              96 Trans Am WS6 M6, K&N Filter, BBK Headers, Spec Stage II clutch, 180 Thermostat, MadZ28 tune... Best 1/4 13.76@103.7

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