Spohn tubular k-member

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Just wanted to share a few pics and thoughts on the k-member. It's a very nice piece and weighed in at just under 29 lbs (mild steel).

It definitely saves room and access is much easier. The y-pipe doesn't even come close anymore, but the motor mounts still get in the way of lots of access from the bottom. The engine builder said it was a major pain to install even when the old k-member and A-arms were off the car. I couldn't imagine installing myself with hand tools and the motor in place.

[Injuneer]

Looks good. You can't go wrong with Spohn parts. Interesting that it was so difficult to install. My thought on doing it at home was to drop the entire engine/K-member out of the bottom the car, hold the engine on an engine hoist and drop the K-member to replace it.

Are there nylon ties or some sort of bands holding the brake line to the front tube? I though Steve had put tabs on it to hold the brake lines?

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Sorry I haven't been able to answer you in a while - had the A/C compressor freeze on me, which snapped the belt and caused a huge mess all over. It's in the engine shop right now (didn't feel like dealing with it myself since the first oil change and filter analysis was scheduled on Monday anyway).

I'm also wondering why the install was difficult, because the k-member, a-arms, brakes, engine, etc were all out. I think your plan on dropping all of that, while keeping the engine up is perfect.

I'm not sure about the tabs for the brake lines - I thought I read that he did, but I can't crawl under there and see, since I don't have the car. It doesn't look like I see anything from the pics, but I could be wrong.

Another issue I'm noticing (could be some issue with the install?) is that the alignment is way off. I'm not sure if the steering can be adjusted with the alignment, but I'm holding the wheel 5+ degrees to the left to keep it tracking straight. I guess I should get an alignment first as the builder said the new k-member threw things off. Also, when I turn the wheel all the way to the right, I'm getting a tire rub, which leads me to believe that steering wheel 5-10 degrees to left is "straight". Not sure if this is an alignment issue or install issue.

[Injuneer]

Centering the steering wheel can be accomplished by adjusting both tie-rod ends, assuming the toe-in and the other alignment criteria are correct. But it sounds like it needs a complete alignment first, with recentering a part of the alignment.

[jims69camaro]

craig - you definitely need an alignment. do all four while you're at it. i think most places charge an hour labor, so figure around $60 for that. once you get it aligned i am sure you will notice a difference.

just out of curiosity, what were your reasons for going with the tubular k-member?

-jim

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Thanks Fred and Jim. I will get an alignment at a dealer. I called local tire shops and all said that they can do toe only. They need to "drill" and I need to pay for special tools with caster and camber. I told them BS, the hole is slotted and the GM tool to adjust is available. They had no clue what I said. So after hearing how clueless they are, I think a dealer is best.

Jim, the reasons for the k-member for me are:
- Better access to underneath than stock
- Lighter weight (but that isn't any real factor since it's only 15 lbs)
- While the motor was built up, they dropped the k-member and a-arms. The builder was able to install while everything was off.
- Spohn said that it's fine for daily driving and track use, and I trust their reputation/quality.

Don't know if it justifies $500 for everyone, but I think I'll enjoy the benefits.

[Injuneer]

The average alignment shop assumes the 4th Gens are a strut style front supension like the 3rd Gens, and basically require bending to do a full alignment. They don't understand that the 4th Gens were upgraded to a fully adjustable upper/lower unequal A-arm suspension. After I lowered my 94, it took me several shops before I found one that would even put the car on a rack. The guy who accepted it was a gear head, and wanted to see what the car looked like, but he was still under the impression that is was not alignable. He finally realized it was, and did a great job, to my custom specs.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Here are more pics of the k-member installed. Some are horrible pics but I just couldn't get a good angle with jackstands. k-member6 shows the clearance between the header and the k-member...it's awesome, especially compared to stock. But the motor mount is still big and comes close to it.

[ToplessFormula]

The K member looks great.

I've had good luck with Spohn also. Their parts are very high quality.

I went with UMI Performance for my K member and control arms though.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I finally got an alignment and they claimed "with so many aftermarket parts, they did the best they can do". Here are the readings:
Before:
Camber L: -1.6, camber R: -2.2
Cross Camber: 0.6
Caster L: 2.1, caster R: 2.9
Cross Caster: -0.8
SAI L: 15.6, SAI R: 17.3
Toe L: 0.43, Toe R: 0.44
Total Toe: 0.88
Rear camber L: 0.3, R: -0.2
Rear toe L: -0.37, R: 0.18
Rear Total toe: -0.19
Thurst angle: -0.55

After:
Camber L: -0.6, camber R: -0.4
Cross Camber: -0.1
Caster L: 3.2, caster R: 4.5
Cross Caster: -1.3
SAI L: 14.7, SAI R: 13.9
Toe L: 0.03, Toe R: 0.00
Total Toe: 0.03
Rear camber L: 0.3, R: -0.3
Rear toe L: -0.32, R: 0.11
Rear Total toe: -0.21
Thurst angle: -0.43

They wrote a note: "Rear diff not centered in vehicle. Need adjustable panhard and trailing arms to correct angles".
I have spohn panhard/LCAs, but they are non-adjustable. Are those specs bad, and is it true that I'd need adjustable ones?

[Jeff_in_Atl]

They wrote a note: "Rear diff not centered in vehicle. Need adjustable panhard and trailing arms to correct angles".
I have spohn panhard/LCAs, but they are non-adjustable. Are those specs bad, and is it true that I'd need adjustable ones?

Yes. But those are not all that bad. I'm not sure anyone would notice it crabbing down the street.
The adjustable panhard rod will change a lot of stuff. It will even help correct for the front caster difference. It's causing the rear toe to be out. Try to get them to get the front toe at zero after you get the adjustable panhard rod in.

[strkt_&_blwn]

nice man I'm getting ready to install one of these on a red '93 firehawk. Some good info on here.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Yes. But those are not all that bad. I'm not sure anyone would notice it crabbing down the street.
The adjustable panhard rod will change a lot of stuff. It will even help correct for the front caster difference. It's causing the rear toe to be out. Try to get them to get the front toe at zero after you get the adjustable panhard rod in.

Thanks Jeff. I'll get the adjustable PHR sometime. I can just try that first before the adjustable LCAs, right? Is also having the "rear diff not centered" and thurst angle off hurting my pinion seal with any extra wobble? Or is that small degree to hurt anything?

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Thanks Jeff. I'll get the adjustable PHR sometime. I can just try that first before the adjustable LCAs, right? Is also having the "rear diff not centered" and thurst angle off hurting my pinion seal with any extra wobble? Or is that small degree to hurt anything?

I doubt it. The rear end moves more than .02 degrees while driving.

Before I put on the adjustable PHR the caster was out of spec on the right front. It was in the red on the alignment machine. The mechanic started turning the bolt on the PHR and you could watch the caster move in to spec. I was amazed that the rear alignment made such a difference on the front alignment. I guess that is why they hook up the rear end even though they are only adjusting the front.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Thanks Jeff, very interesting points, and good to know!