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Rebuilt Engine Burning Through o2 sensors

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  • #1

    Rebuilt Engine Burning Through o2 sensors

    Just went through my 3rd set of o2 sensors on my 1997 Camaro Z28 with a new LT1 after the last one through a rod : (. It seems the o2 sensors work fine for about 30 - 70 miles before they throw a code then they throw a code for not enough voltage from either side forget the exact code can't check while I'm at college, but I will check when i get home fro spring break in 2 weeks if i haven't fixed the problem. Anyway does anyone have any idea what could be causing the delayed set of the codes ? or the o2 sensors dieing ?

    Also I still have a leak from the waterpump driveshaft seal which i will not be able to fix until spring break is there anyway this is causing the o2's a problem? maybe from coating the connectors from the extensions due to the headers in oil ?
    1997 Camaro Z28 Pacesetter Long tubes, ORY-Pipe, Accel 30# Injectors, MSD Cap & Rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires, NGK Irdium TR55IV Plugs, and Borla Catback. Madtuner Tune, SLP High/Low fan switch, NGK o2 sensors

    New Longblock at 110,947 and everything above.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Your long tube headers can cause a code. Long tubes headers move the O2 sensor away from the engine causing a time lag for the computer. I think the code is "insufficient switches". I actually had that problem after installing headers on the Vette. You can replace the O2s and they will work for a period of time then it will start throwing the code intermittently. If this is the problem there are 2 fixes.

    The proper fix is to buy rear O2 sensors (which are stronger or hotter or something) and install them in the front O2 sensor holes. You will also need adapter harnesses to adapt from the 4 wire square connector that the rear uses to the 4 wire flat connector that the front uses. I know they exist but I have yet to find them for sale. I have seen them come with at least one set of headers which I can not remember right now.

    The work around fix is to have someone take the codes out of the computer that is causing the code. However this dumbs down the computer and it looses the ability to correct for long term fuel usage and will decrease the fuel mileage a little.

    This is just one possible problem without knowing the exact code you are getting.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      thankssssssssssssss
      2002 Firehawk, LS 7 Flyw/clutch,
      Kooks Hdrs/Y high flow cats, SLP Ldmth 1 catback,
      Spohn solid motor mounts/lowr panhard/tunnel brace
      BMR Billet control arms/upper panhard/tourque arm/trans crossmember
      Eibach springs/sway bars

      Comment

      • #4
        You didn't use any silicon RTV on the re-assembly? Especially the intake side? That stuff can foul O2 sensors-

        These are the sensors before the cats? Make sure you run it long enough for everything to 'burn off', come up to temps for a few cycles-
        2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
        "Black, the fastest color"

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        • #5
          You beat me to it...silicone.

          Assuming your O2s were working for awhile, then quit, it sounds to me like you've got a poisoning problem. I know they make sensors that can hold up better, but they will fail too.

          I think the RTV will eventually stop leaching silicone gas, but not sure how long. You may have to run it a while without O2s.

          Also, you're running unleaded gas, right? Leaded fuel will cause a fouling as well, but you should know whether or not you've got leaded gas in the tank. Is it possible the shop filled you up with the wrong stuff???
          Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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          • #6
            Wow! This is an old thread but still having the same problem and no we bought the fully rebuilt long-block from a shop and put it in but did not use any silicone sealant's in the seal up, and I think that would have burned off by now.

            Anyway I replaced them a short time ago with the NGK O2 sensors from summit's online site and they are a lot smaller I haven't been worrying about it since it just sits in the college parking lot except when I go on break, but now the emissions are due :O. So I am going to dig back into it the car does have a decent oil leak which I believe is from the water pump driver shaft oil seal which I am going to try, and fix after my next paycheck. Also I will buy the official AC Delco o2 sensors, but otherwise does anyone have any suggestion to what it could be.


            Will also try and retrieve codes as soon as I get a hold of the other lap top with the software on it.
            1997 Camaro Z28 Pacesetter Long tubes, ORY-Pipe, Accel 30# Injectors, MSD Cap & Rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires, NGK Irdium TR55IV Plugs, and Borla Catback. Madtuner Tune, SLP High/Low fan switch, NGK o2 sensors

            New Longblock at 110,947 and everything above.

            Comment

            • #7
              Silicon are present in antifreeze. Hopefully there is no minor leak. Have the coolant levels stayed full?

              Comment

              • #8
                Too much/not enough amperage going to the heated element maybe?
                Open heated element circuit?
                Bad PCM or connections?

                If its not silicone, maybe something like that,
                get the exhaust gas tested for coolant, or the coolant tested for exhaust gas.

                are the O2's covered in white?
                -Alex
                1995 LT1 ECU (GREAT for flashing!)
                ZO6 wheels (clones)
                LED exterior and interior lighting
                With questionable guts:
                Forged bottom end
                free flowing 3 1/2" exhaust w/
                pacesetter longtubes
                T56 with a 6 puck ceramic copper heavy duty clutch
                Built T56, 3.5" 4130 driveshaft w/spicer HD's
                K&N RAM air from 96 ws6
                96? ws6 hood
                96? ws6 spoiler
                full emissions delete
                polished heads with oversize valve job
                Edelbrock IAS shocks
                Full tubular Chassis minus k member
                Daily Driver and love it that way
                Motor is not what you'd think.

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                • #9
                  Before you buy anything pull the codes. If the code says "insuficiant switches" the problem is what I posted above and the only way to fix it is what I said above.
                  2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                  1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                  A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jeff_in_Atl
                    The proper fix is to buy rear O2 sensors (which are stronger or hotter or something) and install them in the front O2 sensor holes. You will also need adapter harnesses to adapt from the 4 wire square connector that the rear uses to the 4 wire flat connector that the front uses. I know they exist but I have yet to find them for sale. I have seen them come with at least one set of headers which I can not remember right now.
                    This appears to not be a long term solution. I am getting the code again.
                    Originally posted by Jeff_in_Atl
                    The work around fix is to have someone take the codes out of the computer that is causing the code. However this dumbs down the computer and it looses the ability to correct for long term fuel usage and will decrease the fuel mileage a little.
                    This may be the only solution. Ugh.
                    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                    Comment

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