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LS1 brake swap + exhaust ?'s

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  • LS1 brake swap + exhaust ?'s

    My clutch is going to be replaced as that went, but my brakes and exhaust need to be replaced as well. My Flowmaster has rusted pretty badly, so I'm thinking of going with a stainless steel catback to hold up to NY road conditions. I'm thinking of trying to pick up a used Borlacat back from LS1tech.com. Does anyone think this is a bad idea? I'm torn between something loud and something quiet. My taste changes from day to day. I figure an adjustable Borla cat back would be the way to go and there's no chance I'm shelling out $800 for a new set up. Even Magnaflow is charging over $500 for their cat backs now.

    First and foremost though, my brakes need to be replaced. When it rains, my brakes barely stop the car. I'd imagine water collects between the rotor and brake pad. How much is it going to cost me to do this upgrade (fronts only), plus where can I get the parts from? Would I see a significant difference in braking power from changing to braided steel brake lines?

    I guess I should turn my attention to my suspension after this. Anyone want to throw some ideas out as to what I should change first? I'm guessing springs and shocks? I'm thinking of ordering this from Spohn (300# spring rate)-

    http://www.spohn.net/?action=product&pid=1063
    Will this show a dramatic improvement over stock?

    Thanks in advance. I finally have a full time job, so I'm starting to get some money together. When I stop with upgrading shot stock parts, I hope to go with some bolt ons. Namely headers, gears and a tune.
    Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
    SOLD- Kinda miss it
    94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
    SOLD- Good riddance!
    2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow

  • #2
    Anybody? I think my shocks are on their last legs
    Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
    SOLD- Kinda miss it
    94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
    SOLD- Good riddance!
    2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow

    Comment


    • #3
      what do u mean the brakes barely stop the car when it rains? u got something major going on htere but get a set of good stock rotors and some good aftermarket pads, since u live in NY u prob want to get a progressive rate spring, and decent shocks.
      2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

      old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

      Comment


      • #4
        My brakes work alright when it's dry, but when it rains they get very sloppy. Again, to the best of my knowledge, these are the original brakes and have 110k miles on them, so it's about time that they go. I think that water prevents solid contact between the rotor and pad when it rains. That would be my guess though.
        Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
        SOLD- Kinda miss it
        94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
        SOLD- Good riddance!
        2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow

        Comment


        • #5
          Those brakes sound dangerous! I would make sure all the calipers are sliding freely- they can rust on their pins and get hung up. If you go to a dimpled or slotted rotor, it will clear the water between the rotor and pad quickly, but cost more than a plain rotor. Make sure you use the right pad for your driving conditions- some of the racier track pads really don't start to bite very well until you get them heated up-

          Yeah, the adjustable Borla is nice, my reason for going that route-

          I replaced my springs a little more cheaply, found a wrecked WS6 and took those parts- I could tell the DeCarbon shocks were a larger diameter, too- If you could find a 1LE Camaro in a salvage yard, that would be worth taking all the suspension pieces you could- control arms, sway bars, springs and shocks (depending on mileage for the shocks, of course)
          2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
          "Black, the fastest color"

          Comment


          • #6
            I was looking at this-

            http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=890485

            Do I need LS1 spindles to upgrade to LS1 brakes or could I use my LT1 spindles?
            Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
            SOLD- Kinda miss it
            94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
            SOLD- Good riddance!
            2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow

            Comment


            • #7
              You have to use the LS1 spindles. The LT1 spindle has slides for the calipers. The LS1 spindles do not have the slides and they have bolts to mount the caliper that the LT1 does not.

              Here is a picture I took comparing the two. (LT1 left - LS1 right)
              http://www.claire-marie.net/LT1vsLS1_brakes.JPG
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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