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97' LT1 Can a bad MAP sensor cause the engine not to start?

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  • 97' LT1 Can a bad MAP sensor cause the engine not to start?

    I have a 97 z28 LT1 car and can a faulty MAP sensor cause the car not to start or just run poorly.My car backfires through the throttle body when you try to start it. It has a brand new distributor, crankshaft position sensor, PCM, and Iginiton module. The diagnostic codes I get are basically a crank sensor fault, and crank sensor circuit fault. What do y'all think?

  • #2
    check the wires for a break, just hook up a test light and make sure ur gettin power at the sensor
    2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

    old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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    • #3
      Has the engine been started since the new distributor was put in? If not, sounds like the drive pin might not have been indexed correctly to the three holes on the back of the Opti.

      Do you have the ability to scan the PCM, or a voltmeter to check the MAP sensor? With key on, the MAP harness should show 5V from the gray wire to the black wire, and a bit less than 5V between the light green signal wire and the black wire (depends on barometer and altitude). The signal with key on (engine off) is the barometric pressure. When the engine tries to start, the signal wire should start to show a variable voltage, depending on manifold vacuum.

      Check the MAP sensor connector. They tend to dry out and crumble, allowing the wires and contacts to move around and give erratic readings. I'm not sure it would prevent the engine from starting, even if there was a problem. It can cause the engine to run poorly, since the PCM uses the MAP to look up the spark advance, determine which long term fuel correction cell to use, etc.

      If the MAP sensor had a short, you would be getting a code for low voltage/high vacuum. It can't check for high voltage/low vacuum until the engine starts.

      The CKP sensor codes should not cause problems. The sensor is only used for misfire detection. Make sure its hooked up.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        ?????what's next?

        The car wasnt running when I bought it. The distributor had water in it so I replaced it with a brand new one. Once replaced it ran great. Then one day the clutch exploded and I replaced it with a Centerforce dual friction clutch. Then the check engine light came on and stayed on. I check the codes and I had an EGR Valve malfunction. Come to think of it after I replaced it that's when the trouble started. I wonder if the new EGR valve was stuck open would be causing it not to start and backfire through the throttle body? Any suggestions?
        P.S. I have also replace ignition module, PCM, CK sensor, ck sensor pigtail.

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        • #5
          Hey heres a couple of things i ran into on mine. i had to do some opti work and someone before me had broke the clip off that 4 wire connector that plugs into the dist. well i thought i had it in and it ran great also alot better than it ever had. well all of the sudden it just stalls out on me. come to find out that connector wasnt plugged in good enough and wouldnt stay in so it was losing its signal. yeah so i would strongly recommend checking that.

          this may be a long shot but the water pump isnt leaking and got ur new one messed up after being driven a little bit did it? yep just my 2 cents lol good luck.
          '97 Trans Am - B&M Short Throw - B&M Line Lock - k&N Cold air - 6 speed - Lt1 T-Tops - Lowered

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